Author: malyoga

Edmonton, in Alberta,  sits on the North Saskatchewan river which originates from the Snow Dome Continental Divide , where we were last week.  ( keep up now!)  We spent a very happy weekend, staying with my brother who I see very little of, thanks to living 5000 miles apart.   For those of you who enjoy shopping whilst on holiday, the West Edmonton Mall is a MUST!  It is the BIGGEST MALL in Canada and what an eye opener!  Not only is there every shop you can think of . . . . there is also an enormous swimming area, with beach, wave machines, slides etc . . . . . . there is a huge lake area with a full sized pirate ship moored, ready for weddings and events to be held in ‘THE place in Edmonton’ . . . .  AND on top of all that, there is a full sized ice rink!  If you’re that way inclined, the whole family could happily spend a day there (good marketing ploy!)

Beginning the final part of our figure of eight around Canada, we drove east and detoured through Elk Island National Park.  This enormous area  (194 sq km) is home to a large number of bison.  There is an active and successful  breeding programme, resulting in bison being introduced to other national parks  where they will be protected and  thrive in their natural environment.  By sheer luck, we came upon a herd on the road, so were able to quietly sit and watch as they munched their way past.  Big, strong animals – you wouldn’t want to mess with them!

Our daily search for somewhere to stop for lunch often brings a nice surprise.  One day this week we found ourselves in a Ukrainian settlement area.  Like so many other Europeans, they were offered cheap land upon immigration in the early 1900’s.  Vegreville is one of the Prairie towns, central to their area and we discovered an idyllic little park (lake, fountain, picnic tables, nice flower beds).  A massive and very colourful Psyanka (Easter Egg in Ukrainian) dominates the park.  Purported to be the largest Psyanka in the world, it weighs a mere 5,512 lb and is made up of 524 star patterns and 2,208 triangular pieces.  (rather puts any patchwork quilt to shame!)  No, it’s NOT chocolate!!  It’s made of aluminium which has been permanently anodized in gold, silver and bronze.  Mounted on a 27000 lb base, it swings and moves with the wind.  A very unusual weather vane!

Lloydminister sits on the border of Alberta and Saskatchewan which runs right through the centre of town.  It’s municipal campground made a perfect overnight stop.  Continuing east we enjoyed crossing the Prairies once again. Great expanses of gold in all directions.  Combine-harvesters and swathing machines appearing like tiny dots on the horizon, recognizable only by the cloud of dust which surrounds them.  I was remembering my father who used to arrive home from a day’s harvesting, covered in dust from head to foot – looking like a baker who’d fallen into the flour pot!  The machines may have changed over the years, but the typical summer dryness, just in time for harvest is still the norm.

As I mentioned in July, the grain elevators are very much a part of the Prairie skyline.  Western Canada was once known as the World’s Bread Basket, and during the 1940’s there were well over 5500 elevators across the Prairies.  Railway lines were constructed (both branch and main lines) to connect the elevators and take the grain to ports, from where it was shipped around the world.  The tiny town of Inglis in Manitoba has set up a National Historic Site, where four wooden elevators, built in the 1920’s, are preserved and open to the public.

Times have changed – grain elevators are now built of steel or reinforced concrete, and most branch lines have been closed. Trucks now transport grain from the isolated farms to the much larger new elevators.   Oats, wheat, flax, canola, barley and lentils are all twenty first century commodities from the Prairies.

We were intrigued to see the grass on the roadsides being baled into hay.  Google tells us that Alberta suffered a drought last year which devastated hay supplies.  Saskatchewan and Manitoba farmers are busy making hay with any grass they can (once you’ve made the grass into hay, it’s yours!) and then selling it on to Alberta farmers.  Controversy is rife as the roadside grass is full of weeds, salt and pesticides!  Now you know what keeps us amused whilst on the road!!

Two days of rest and relaxation were enjoyed at Wasagaming in Rising Mountain National Park, in Manitoba.  A lovely campground, with plenty of trees, lots of privacy – but within walking distance of  Clear Lake with its sandy beaches and boating facilities.  A number of local walks and nature trails – with warnings of a bear being in the vicinity, so we had to sing (or talk loudly) on our walk through the nature reserve!  Local shops and restaurants were also within walking distance, all of this giving Lulu (and her drivers) a much- needed break from the long trek back across the country.

Passing into Northern Ontario, the Prairies quite suddenly stop, and thick mixed forest starts.  We had  forgotten just how big Ontario is – it took us three days to drive across the top from east to west.  We’ve allowed six days to make our way back to the rental company.  See you next week, when I shall be mopping up the tears . . . . . .

 

No doubt the British Columbia wildfires have reached the British press.  Be reassured that we have seen plenty of smoke, but no flames!  A very efficient website, keeps everyone up to date on where the fires are, and what roads are closed.  We have been so lucky  – unlike the thousands of people who are being evacuated from their homes to spend nail-biting days in a recreation hall, hoping and praying that their house has been saved.  The poor firemen struggle to bring a huge fire under control, only to find that lightning has started another dry area burning – I sincerely hope they are being paid OVERTIME!

Most of this week’s photos will be of a smokey nature  – apart from one exciting ‘stroke of luck’  – read on!  I posted a smokey sunset at the end of last week’s entry in Castlegar.  The wildfire website informed us that Hwy 3, which had been our planned route, was closed due to a fire.  A one hundred km detour was necessary, which resulted in a very windy, slow road following the Kootenay River to Balfour where we caught a free ferry across Kootenay Lake.  Government- funded because it is on a main road – takes 80 cars at a go – two ferries run back and forth all day.  We used the 40 minute crossing to have breakfast onboard Lulu!

Continuing east and then north, our campsite for the following two nights was near Kimberley – a lovely mountain site, with lots of trees around for privacy – but big warnings to be on the look-out for wildlife  (we managed a deer!).

The campground was bordered by St Mary’s (very fitting, we thought!) river and had some good walking trails about.

Kimberley itself was originally a mining town.  The mine closed some time ago, but was very successful in its day producing huge quantities of lead, zinc and silver.  We enjoyed a very good underground tour in the mine  – being taken down by a tiny train, such as the miners would have traveled on.  An ex-miner was on hand to show us just how tough their life was  – but insisted that they all thrived on it and were well remunerated.  It saddens us to hear this afternoon, that residents of Kimberley have been put on evacuation alert – the fires are getting very close to them.

Driving due north we headed for Golden – a town that we had already skimmed past on our way out of the Rockies in July.  Downtown Golden proved to be a thriving and busy place – it took three tries to find a table in a restaurant!  We also managed to get a third Oil Change for Lulu – yes, we’ve driven 16,000 km!  The campsite there was right next to the river AND an enormous Railway terminus!  Suffice to say, that we were up and on the road very early the next morning!

By now, the smoke from wildfires was getting very noticeable.  Mountain views up and over the Kicking Horse Pass were being blanked out by a sort of grey smog.  Our fingers were firmly crossed that the smoke would not have reached into the Rockies as far as the Icefield Parkway.  Having looked forward to driving this famous route for the previous three months, you can imagine our disappointment, as we drove along seeing precious little.

Our plan was to drive from Lake Louise to Jasper (ie the whole Icefields Parkway) on the first day, and then to return to the Icefield Centre on the second day to do a pre-booked Glacier Tour.  After a miserable day one (too much smoke, too many people and everyone looking dour), we retired to our campsite in Jasper with fingers firmly crossed.  Hallejuah! Our prayers were answered.  A very early start resulted in no traffic, and much more clarity as the sun rose over the mountains!  We arrived at the Icefield centre with time to walk to the Toe of the Glacier, before actually taking the tour – which involves a hair-raising ride on an IceBus and then a 40 minute walk on 850 ft depth of ice, on the Athabasca Glacier (7000 ft altitude)!  What a thrill!  It was AWESOME  – and there was very little smoke for those two hours.

The tour includes a visit to the Glacier Skyway – a very scary and precarious ‘balcony’ built 950 ft above the Sunwapta Canyon!  A glass-bottomed walkway allows you to look WAY DOWN THERE, if you can bear it!  People were literally lying on their tummies to take photos  – not me, though!

As we returned to Jasper, the smoke came down over the mountains again – and has not left us since.  However, we have absolutely no complaints compared to the poor people whose homes are in danger.  And what of the wildlife in the many square miles of bush that are alight?   It’s a very sad situation . . . .

We’ve exited the Rockies now  and come further east to Hinton.  The smoke seems to have infiltrated well into Alberta.  We are heading for Edmonton to spend the weekend with my brother.  Apparently, even the Edmonton skies are doused with smoke.

Driving east from Hell’s Gate, we have followed Hwy 3 along the southern area of B.C., very close to the USA border at times.  The Okanagan valley is well known for its numerous vineyards.  It is also VERY DRY and DESERT-LIKE.  After passing through several more mountain passes, the countryside suddenly opens up into very wide valleys, with towering rocky cliffs.  Thick green forests are replaced with shabby, dry scrub-land.  Every available flat area seems to be planted with fruit trees (peaches, apricots and cherries) or grapevines.  Irrigation from the numerous rivers is paramount to the success of this enormous area, as is the more moderate climate.  Lots of pretty lakes act as magnets to holiday makers, keen on beach holidays, fishing, or boating.

As I’ve mentioned in earlier blogs, we have had to book campsites well ahead, as we are now in peak season.  Umpteen phone calls resulted in a four night stay in Summerland, with us thinking “Oh goodie, four days relaxing on the beach”.  The municipal campground is “within walking distance of the beach”.  Disappointingly, the campground is overcrowded  (another RV carpark!) and the local beach was badly damaged in this year’s floods – making swimming not at all pleasant.  Lots of other beaches are a short drive away, but Lulu is just too big to squeeze into small spaces under trees.  Unusually high temperatures (39C by 11am), and wildfires in the vicinity meant there was a continual ‘smog’ hanging over the area.

All was not lost however.  We did early morning walks, discovering a very welcoming local town with lovely coffee shops, good places for breakfast and wonderful banners painted by local people.

The local Ornamental Garden was a real bonus  – lots of parking for Lulu, and several benches in the shade with a breeze from the lake, allowing us to enjoy the colourful gardens  (we went two days running, just to escape the heat!) .  Local taxis ferried us out to an excellent restaurant one night, and then to a very good folk concert at one of the local vineyards on another night.  What a wonderful combination – good live music, sipping local wines, outdoors on a balmy evening!

Not many miles further south, the lush forests and mountains return.  Now further east in Castlegar, we have savoured two nights on an idyllic campground  – Adults Only!  Beautifully quiet, individual sites have lots of space, freshly mown grass and shade to sit and watch the river go by.  Castlegar is situated at the junction of the Kootenay and Columbia rivers within the Selkirk mountain area.  Nice town  (good coffee!) and the usual wonderful flower displays.  I’ve been wanting to mention how Canadians really push the boat out, with their summer displays.  Perhaps this is a necessity after the long winter months.

Finally, to remind you of Canadian humour and ingenuity!  This was outside a Ladies Clothing shop  – but could also be useful outside a Patchwork Fabric shop!

A fitting end to this week’s missive, is tonight’s sunset over the Kootenay River.  Note the smoke filled sky . . .

See you next week . . . .

Blue Horse Folk Art Gallery is an absolute ‘must visit’, if you should find yourself on Salt Spring Island.  The owners are family friends and we were lucky enough to park Lulu on their drive for the night, and enjoy a lovely meal which included figs and cherries straight from the garden.  This little ‘piece of heaven’ also does Bed and Breakfast, so please add it to your bucket list should you be travelling on the island.  (google it!)

 

A two hour ferry journey from Long Harbour takes you to Vancouver, where we were overjoyed that more family friends had cordoned off sufficient space outside their home for us to park Lulu! (think chairs and string!)  Situated within minutes of the ocean, we enjoyed two nights in a proper bedroom with the use of a proper shower, in this Heritage House with its beautiful front garden.  The garden is FULL of a spectacular array of plants, with lots of colour – and becomes the dining room for the summer months.

From here we discovered that Vancouver is a great ‘outdoor’ city.  Bicycle lanes snake throughout the city, beaches skirt the harbour, and wonderful trails cross the many parks.  Stanley Park is probably the most well known  (think rose gardens and cricket pitches) and it includes a nine km perimeter walk where we watched the enormous ships waiting in the harbour to off-load their cargo, numerous sea planes running passengers to local lakes, ferries rushing back and forth as well as many pleasure boats enjoying the sunshine.

We spent a happy day enjoying both a City Tour and a Park Tour – both hop-on/hop-off type buses – which gave us a good feel of the city.  We will definitely return – it needs at least a week to do it justice.  Vancouver has a vibrant atmosphere, and lots of smiling faces.  It’s location and investment potential make it one of the most expensive cities in the world, but well worth a visit!

 

The road north, around and through the Coastal Mountains is spectacular.  We spent two nights in Whistler, famous as the skiing centre for the 2010 Olympics.  Jaw dropping scenery in all directions.  Again, it’s not ‘what you know, but who you know’  – another family friend acted as tour guide.  A gondola ride up Whistler Mountain was breath taking (a half hour ride!) – a Peak to Peak Gondola (20 mins) had us suspended from the ‘longest unsupported span in the world – 3.024 km – whilst we crossed from the top of Whistler to Blackcombe Mountain.  Wonderful views in all directions, though sadly the haze and high cloud does not compliment my photos!

Heading further north from Whistler, we put Lulu through her paces as we went up and over an amazing mountain pass  (hair-pin bends++!) and followed the Duffey Lake Road all the way to Lillooet on the Fraser River.  Turning south,  the Fraser Canyon with its precariously built roads and railways has held us in awe for several  days.

Hell’s Gate is one of the narrowest parts of the Fraser River where the towering rocky cliffs come towards each other forcing 200 million gallons of water per minute, through a 33 metre passage.  Simon Fraser himself (after whom the river is named) struggled at this point of the river, which he decreed “a place where no human should venture, for surely these are the gates of Hell”.  The construction of one of the two railway lines that run along opposite cliffs, resulted in a huge rock fall which almost blocked the river in 1914.  The annual salmon spawn was all but obliterated.  Many years of unrest between the local Aboriginal tribes and the Government  resulted in the blockage being removed and fishways being built.  Over the years, they have been altered to allow for the varying water levels and salmon levels have returned towards normal.   All of this along with a heart stopping Air Tram, made this visit a memorable one.

Some of you have kindly asked if we have been affected by Wild Fires.  British Columbia has an excellent website (BC Fire Info) and we have been able to keep an eye out. From our campsite at Canyon Alpine, we have been aware of helicopters coming and going to refuel and pick up more fire crews and support materials.  An area we passed through today was slightly hazy (and smelled of smoke) from the Snowy Mountain fire (currently covering 12,000 hectares)  So far, we’ve been lucky  – we’ll keep you posted.

We are now in an almost desert like area in the south of the province.  It’s a wine growing region – depending on how well the tasting sessions go, (Hick!) I may see you next week!

Hello Folks!

For those of you who have never visited Northern British Columbia, I can’t recommend it highly enough.  The journey from Hazelton to Prince Rupert passes through some of the most magnificent and dramatic scenery we’ve seen.  Beautiful snow-capped mountains, pristine lakes, wide rivers which vary from quiet, mirror-like pools with very clear water, to rushing torrents of milky glacial run-off.  There are some very fertile and productive farms in the valleys – a lot of fruit is grown in the Terrace area, which has its own micro-climate. The majority of the area however, is thick mixed woodland, where the lumber industry employs much of the sparse population.  The Canadian Railway criss-crosses the road and winds itself around the mountains.  Huge freight trains regularly chug along the lines, stretching up to 14,000 ft long – that’s 4km!  You can read a book whilst you’re waiting at the level crossings!    Once again, we were blessed with brilliant sunshine and blue skies, which helped to show this area at its best.

British Columbia Ferries run an impressive ferry route up and down the west coast of B.C. between Prince Rupert and Port Hardy (on the north-eastern coast of Vancouver Island), which takes you through the ‘Inner Passage’. This eighteen hour journey had been highly recommended, and not without reason.  Trip Advisor served its purpose, and we followed the suggestion of pre-booking reclining chairs in the Aurora Lounge which has floor to ceiling windows on one of the upper levels at the bow of the ship.   This paid off – we sailed at 7:30 am and docked at 11:30 pm.  Apart from the last hour of darkness, the entire journey was picture postcard perfect.  The route takes you through the very narrow (1400 ft) Grenville Channel, with its steeply sided mountains and enormous depths of water (up to 1620 ft), and then widens at various river junctions.

Very old lighthouses  (still manned!) are dotted along the route  – and the tiny town of Bella Bella ( a First Nation’settlement) is a regular stop to take on and discharge passengers.  Not only is the scenery breathtaking, so is the wildlife.  Orcas and humpback whales performed for us in several places and pods of porpoises frolicked in the water.  Bald eagles swooped for jumping salmon.  Again, I can’t grace you with photos – in the excitement of seeing all these amazing creatures, I never have my camera at the ready!  Several campgrounds have been set up at either end of the ferry run – unfortunately, the fact that the majority of the campers are either arriving at midnight, or departing at 5:30 am, means that individual private sites are non-existent.  These campgrounds should be called RV Carparks!!  Sadly, we were not allowed to park and sleep in the ferry queue. . . .

Vancouver Island is a very popular holiday destination, as well as having its own population of 780,000.  It is 500km long and 100 km wide, and boasts a temperate climate.  Boating, beaches, hiking in the mountains or the rainforests – the Island has it all.  Our campsite at Campbell River backed onto a tidal inlet where we sat and watched four bald eagles on their nests.  The town was an easy walk away for shopping and a meal out – and much needed haircuts!  The Pacific Rim Trail along the west coast of the island provided a lovely hike through the trees – knarled with age and sea winds – with awe-inspiring views of the ocean.

My goal was to see the sunset over the Pacific, as well as dip my toes in  – I managed both!

The road from the east to west coast – Hwy 4, the Alberni Highway, takes a lot of patience and tested Lulu (and her drivers!) to the limit.  Steep mountains passes and narrow, very tight bends meant queues of cars building up very quickly.  Nervous intakes of breath became the norm whenever an enormous truck appeared in the opposite direction!  Passing places help to relieve the pressure, but this road will be remembered as one of life’s challenges . . . . .

After a night to recover in Cedar Grove Campground at Qualicum Beach, a small roll-on, roll-off ferry has brought us to Salt Spring Island, the largest of the Gulf Islands in the Strait of Georgia between Vancouver Island and the mainland.  With a population of 10,000, its location and climate have attracted everyone from artists to farmers, from writers to retirees.  The Mowhinna Creek campground near Ganges, has wonderful big, private sites with lots of shade to keep Lulu cool.  Every guidebook lists the Saturday Farmers Market on the island as being a number one priority.  This of course means that every other tourist seemingly in the whole of British Columbia is attending the market as well!!  We walked into town (2km) having decided that parking Lulu might be difficult – a good decision. . . . This market is enormous – easily 200 stalls, and vendors must “make it, bake it or grow it” themselves, with all products being ‘vendor produced or sold’.  A very popular spot with visitors and locals, and a tremendous atmosphere.  The hot summer sun twinkling on the harbour waters next to the stalls, just seemed to nourish everyone’s already contented holiday disposition.  They definitely got the marketing right on this gem!

Moving on to Vancouver soon. . . . . See you then.

Lush green fields, fertile valleys, miles of thick green mixed forest, rushing milky watered rivers, spectacular glaciers hugging high mountains  – this is British Columbia!  Our first week here has been full of excitement and surprises.

As you’ll see from the map, we’ve covered a fair bit of ground.  Seven campsites since the last blog, and a couple of those for two nights.  From Lake Louise, we headed south west, out of the Rockies and over the Great Divide at Kicking Horse Pass.  “From now on all rivers flow into the Pacific” we told ourselves.  Lamplighter Campground at Revelstoke was VERY busy and noisy  – both with very near neighbours (sites were too small) AND the ever present Canadian National Railway!  Kamloops sits in its own little desert area, but its campsite was nicely shaded and cool.  Heading north, we followed the valley of the North Thompson River where we stopped numerous times just to take in the fabulous scenery.

An early evening walk in the dappled shade of Wells Gray Provincial Park led us to yet another waterfall, before we settled for the night at a KOA in Clearwater.  (keep up, now!  KOA mentioned some time ago!)   Heading even further north and still following the mighty North Thompson River, we took a side turning to a River Safari.  It was 35C, and the thought of a couple of hours on the water really appealed!  A group of twenty of us, set off with our guide, in two fibreglass canoes, securely lashed together and with a barge board down the middle so that the guide could move up and down it with ease.  Set up with a rudder front AND rear, and a small battery operated propeller – this was an ECO Tour!  We were asked to stay silent and keep our eyes peeled for wildlife on the shore.  After forty minutes with the sun beating down on us, we were all thinking “this is a con!” Imagine our surprise and excitement, when a black bear was spotted on the shore!  Typically it was at the shallow end of the lake, but our guide was not to be put off – he lifted the propeller and jumped overboard into waist-high water – and proceeded to quietly push us as close as he dared.  Sadly NOT close enough for my smart phone to get a decent photo!

Two nights in the lovely Yellowhead campsite in Valemount meant there was time to enjoy exploring locally.  The tourist information office was second to none  – very helpful staff, good quality locally made goods being sold, and (making MY day!) a huge patchwork quilt on the wall made by local ladies depicting all the local activities and history of the town.  The above mentioned “very helpful staff” encouraged us to ‘tick off’ another dream on my bucket list – white water rafting!  Here was an opportunity not to be missed – white water rafting on the upper reaches of the Fraser River within view of Mt Robson – the highest mountain in the Rockies!  Getting into wet suits and being given the safety brief gave us a good hint of what was to come!  With only four of us on board, we had to work hard, but WOW what an adrenaline rush!!  Can’t recommend it enough – perhaps we were spoiled by the perfect weather and a VERY capable guide.

Turning west from Valemount, and reaching the West Lake campground near Prince George, we thought we’d died and gone to heaven.  We were warmly greeted by owner Wendy, who walked out to greet us, and then insisted on helping us put Lulu in exactly the right position, on our VERY large and private site.  Nothing was too much trouble, the site had full service ie water, electricity and sewage connection.  Logs for the campfire were delivered to us. And best of all  – NO TRAINS!!  We could quite happily have stayed for a week – but we have carefully booked campsites up to a month in advance, because it is high season and very busy.

Looking for somewhere to stop for lunch one day, we happened upon the Ancient Trees Provincial Park.  What a find!  One thousand year old Hemlocks and Western Red Cedars towered above us – (90 metres high and some with a 16 metre girth!) as we followed a non-slip boardwalk for 2.5 km through the woods.  Made entirely by local volunteers, it took two years to complete and includes a 500m totally level section which takes wheelchairs.  Not only does this make the park accessible to a wider range of people, it also protects the forest floor enabling ‘nature’ to carry on, uninterrupted.

Continuing west, we are now in BC’s Lake District.  A night at the Nithi Resort on Francoise Lake reminded us that “Yes, it is still holiday season here and most campsites are very busy”.  A last minute decision to do an eighty mile ‘side-trip’ to another National Historic Site proved worth it.  Fort St James was an important fur trading post developed by Simon Fraser (hence Fraser River) in 1806.    Parks Canada have renovated a group of the original log buildings and set them up as they would have been in 1896 when this was the Hudson’s Bay Company most profitable location.    Volunteers in period costume greet you in each building and tell you all about the fur trade and the history of the area.  Interestingly beaver was the principal fur that was traded, but along with many others  (fox, wolf, coyote, bear, white ermine etc).  Once again, very informative and brilliantly interpreted.

Two further nights in Hazelton have opened our eyes towards Canada’s Indians (now known as First Nations People).  This campsite was developed 50 years ago by the local Ksan tribe, and is owned and run by them to this day.  Neat as a pin and efficiently run, the site is located at the meeting of two rivers – the Bulkley and the Skeena.  In Indian culture, this denotes ‘food’ and ‘energy’ – hence they settled in this area.  They have built a historic village of long houses here on site, and give guided tours to demonstrate the symbolism and spiritual meanings to their culture.  Totem poles play a significant role in North West BC.  They serve as memorials to the clan’s lineage, or tell a significant story.  The most important part of the story or history is always at the bottom of the pole, working up to the least important at the top.  Therefore apprentices learn and work at the top of the pole – experienced carvers work their magic at the bottom.  Most Totem poles are located at the entrances to houses, or overlooking water ie the source of wealth.  The imagery of birds and animals play an significant role in Indian traditions – hence they materialize on the Totem Pole. 

Prince Rupert is our destination tomorrow and then a much anticipated ferry journey all the way down the coast to Vancouver Island  – but this will make up my next entry!

Have a good week!

I think/hope I have redone the photos on the blog.  It won’t allow me to republish, which (I’m  guessing) will mean that you don’t get a reminder email.  Please check out the ‘update’ on the web.  mollysfolks.wordpress.com

Have a good week everyone. . . . .

Republishing, this time with photos (I hope). Apologies, I tried a different method and it obviously didn’t work!  

 

I’ll always remember my geography teacher describing the various Canadian mountain chains.  “Well, there’s the Laurentians and the Appalachians but both of these are dwarfed by the Rockies”.  He wasn’t joking!!  And what a thrill to finally see them for myself!

We approached the Rockies on a level with Calgary and stayed two nights in Canmore.  Not only did we have mountains towering around us, we also had a train track for company.  Suffice to say that Canadian freight trains are some of the longest in the world, and thunder along 24 hours a day, hooting at the numerous level crossings.  But sleepless nights were a small price to pay – Canmore is home to one of Canada’s biggest quilting shops  – 8000 bolts of fabric and 200 quilts on display  – I was like a kid in a sweet shop!!

The Rocky Mountains are famous world-wide which means that the WHOLE WORLD wants to visit them.  Our day in Banff brought this home to us – the National Park is no longer big enough to cope with the huge numbers of people.  Car parks are full by 7am!  We resorted to Park and Ride which worked well and was always on time  – but sadly was badly advertised and hardly used.  A hair-raising gondola ride to the top of Sulphur Mountain, ascending 2,451 metres in ten minutes, certainly tests your altitude adaptability, but the views in all directions from the top are spectacular.

 

A further trip out to the Cave and Basin National Historic Site gave us insight into the first ever National Park in Canada, and the original hot springs.  The combination of the heat and the ever present sulphur smell,  did not make for a pleasant experience!  Banff town itself had a lovely atmosphere, lots of interesting shops and cafes – all of whom overcharge, simply because they can get away with it!  $20 for two frozen yoghurt cups!!  An evening boat trip on Lake Mannawaki completed our day – lots of scruffy mountain sheep on the road to get there – but our guide was, as ever, very knowledgeable and made learning fun.

The weather ‘closed in’ on us the next day and we used this as an excuse to treat ourselves to breakfast at the Fairmount Banff Springs Hotel!  The food was delicious but sadly we had no chance of seeing the views, as the cloud was down.  The joys of being in the mountains!  Moving on to the Lake Louise area, we were again astounded at the crowds of people  (we have been spoiled so far!)  Even the overflow/park and ride carpark was full by midday, despite the grey miserable weather.  We gave in and used the afternoon for finding some WIFI and catching up with emails and future campsite bookings.  Tourist information assured us that the only way to see both Lake Louise and Moraine Lake, without the crowds, was to get up very early.  Two consecutive 05:30 wake-up calls, ensured that we enjoyed the absolute beauty of these lakes.  What a joy to physically see what the travel brochures always show you!  Turquoise blue water, towering majestic mountains and rushing mountain streams help to make this area particularly special. 

 

A 20 minute ride on a ski-resort chairlift took us to the top of Whitehorn mountain – 3,399 metres.  An hour’s guided walk through a bear enclosure ensured we knew all about ‘what to do if you meet a Grizzly’, but needless to say, they stayed firmly hidden from view!  Incredible views all round – the weather had cleared – and we enjoyed a coffee in the special cafe at the top, looking across the Bow River Valley to Lake Louise.

Crossing into British Columbia (province No 10!), Lulu has negotiated some incredible mountain passes, and seen some spectacular feats of engineering, as the Trans Canada highway descends through deep gullies and layers of rock, or passes over raging mountain torrents.  I have a love of waterfalls, and was thrilled to view the Takakkawa Falls (one of Canada’s highest) at the end of a very windy road, which included two switchbacks!!  It was touch and go, but Lulu made it (a three point turn or two).  Certainly an adrenaline charge!

We will be in B.C. for a month now,  and hope to see the vast majority of the province, but I’ll save that for another blog.  In the meantime, I must mention the wonderful Canadian people.  Three examples this week show their exuberance for life!  A couple approached us as we sat in the sun having lunch in a roadside ‘pull-in’.  “Where are you headed?”  is always the question.  An hour later we were still chatting to these lovely people – they gave us all sorts of suggestions as to what to see and do and couldn’t have been more welcoming.  Another lunch stop in a tiny park area overlooking a lake – very much a back road.   A group of cyclists joined us, much in need of a break and some shade.  They also wanted to know exactly where we’d been and where we were ‘headed’.  Lots of ideas for little side trips.    Today’s was a classic . . . . . . . we were in YET ANOTHER queue for YET ANOTHER set of roadworks.  Whilst lorries were dumping grit the two queues ended up literally alongside each other.  Windows down in the heat, and the chap next to us – big grin – says “Hey! Have you got lunch on board?  What are you having?  We could all come whilst we wait here!”  Lots of joking, and then “where are you headed? Oh wow! you’re seeing more of Canada than we’ll ever see!”  They are all so proud to be Canadian and proud to show off their country.   There’s a few lessons in there somewhere . . . . . . .

 

Our journey across the Prairies has been ANYTHING but boring – as some people had told us it would be.  School geography lessons talked of many miles of flat farmland.  The reality is very different.

The word Prairie means ‘meadow’ and originally incorporated a huge area of natural grassland in the interior of North America.  It was known for its flatness and lack of trees but most importantly, it was where the buffalo roamed and were hunted by the Plains Indians.  Today, the buffalo are pretty well extinct and though the flatness can be seemingly endless, there are huge variations, depending on what part of the Prairies you are passing through.  Every tone of green is on show in deep river valleys.  There are low rolling hills in other places.   Lots of wild ducks, geese and other birds enjoy life on the frequent small ponds (known as Prairie Sloughs).  Many shades of yellow and green spread as far as the eye can see.  The yellow (rapeseed) is brought to life when the sun peeps out from behind a cloud.  Lulu has faced infinite miles of straight road, mostly in much better condition than in the eastern provinces!  Mirages play tricks on your eyesight.  Clumps of trees hide the farmsteads, protecting them from the incessant winds. Huge herds of cattle enjoy the open pastures.  Tall colourfully painted grain elevators  (known as “cathedrals of the plains”) appear frequently, beside the railway tracks which criss-cross the plains.

But the overriding impression is of HUGE skies – more sky than land.  They are vast and awe inspiring.  Cloud formations just blow the mind.  Constantly changing and shifting, from white and fluffy to dark and foreboding.

Thanks to the expanse of sky we could watch a thunderstorm approaching whilst the sun was still breaking through in places, which provided a marvellous contrast.

Three days and four nights saw us crossing the Prairies from Winnipeg.  Crossing into Saskatchewan (province no 8), Moosemin Lake Park was a lovely site nestled in the rolling hills with a man made lake built in the 1950’s for farm irrigation, now supporting water sports and a beach area.  We spent a night in Lumesden Campground near Regina and then had a relaxing day meeting up with several of Peter’s distant cousins, descendants of relatives who immigrated to Canada in the late 1800’s. Moosejaw was our last stop in Saskatchewan before crossing into Alberta (province no 9). Medicine Hat in Alberta had a secluded and well protected campground which proved its worth during some torrential Prairie rain storms.  Once again we were thankful for Lulu  – we were not under canvas!

Approaching Waterton National Park in south-western Alberta was one of the most memorable parts of our journey.  After an extended time on the Prairies the sight of mountains looming in the distance, rising out of the plains was intoxicating.   Waterton was the scene of one of three devastating wild fires in the mountains in 2017.  Ignited by a lightning strike the fire raged for some six weeks and burned more than 20,000 hectares of parkland and forest.  Thanks to the heroics of the many firefighting teams, the local village was saved as was the famous Prince of Wales Hotel, built in 1927 by the Great Northern Railway – and now a good place for afternoon tea!  About half the park is still closed off following last year’s fire, but a two hour hike to a local waterfall gave us some wonderful views, as well as some much needed exercise, before we relaxed on the beach which must have one of the best views in existence!

But Waterton was just a ‘taster’ of the mountains to come.  The Alberta ‘Badlands’ was our next destination.  Heading north-east, back into the interior of Alberta, the Prairie plains were gradually replaced by much drier areas as lush farmlands became dull grasslands.  Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump was our first stop in Badlands.  What a name, eh!  The name says it all.  In a very cleverly designed building, built into the dry cliffs, we were told how the Blackfoot Indians used to patiently drive the buffalo herds towards the cliff.  Their belief was that the buffalo was created for them – they used every part of the buffalo to live on – but the easiest way to kill the buffalo was to herd them together and drive them over the cliff.  This was all done in a controlled annual cull – when the weather and the winds were right.  Sadly as the Whiteman arrived with more advanced tools and weapons the buffalo were quickly wiped out.

Horseshoe Canyon gave us our first taste of ‘Dinosaur land’  – deep cut valleys, with layers of rock – known to be millions of years old.

Drumheller is home to the National Paleontology Museum where, despite crowds of people, we were brought face to face with dinosaurs of all shapes and sizes.  Alberta, 70 million years ago, was home to many dinosaurs and their bones are still being discovered today.  Again the interpretation and showmanship in these centres is second to none.  It is humbling to think that we have so much to learn about the history of our planet.

Could our day in ‘Badlands’ get even better?  Oh yes!  In the hot, dry, dusty early evening sunshine, we joined thousands of other spectators to enjoy the Canadian Passion Play which was performed in the Amphitheatre at Drumheller.  Three and a half hours, with live animals, a bit of humour, and some lovely music, telling the story we all know so well.  Very moving – not a dry eye in the house! Actors appearing from behind the hills, angels materializing high on the hills above us, and a captivating (and very real) crucifixion scene which had us all transfixed.    Very clever acting from a huge cast.  Definitely the icing on the cake for us!

Moving into the Rockies now – see you next week!

Peter’s map this week will show you our route from Quebec City – where Lulu was serviced – to Winnipeg, Manitoba.  Yes!  We’re headin’ west!

A comfortable day’s driving across Quebec took us to a campsite on Lake Marlon, where we were alloted a lovely lakeside site.   However, an oversight on our part, meant that we’d chosen a campsite with no electricity, no water pressure  (a dribble at best!) and no sewage dump!  Note for the future  . . . . . check the details more thoroughly when booking!  However, I must mention our lunch stop that day.  We pulled into a municipal park with hunger being the only thing on our minds,  only to discover that we were next to an Open Cast Gold Mine.  The mine at Malartic was only opened in 2011. With the discovery of gold, came the mammoth task of moving families and homes to make way for the enormous mining area – over the 15 years they expect it to run it will spread to some 2km in length by almost 1 km wide, and up to 380m deep.  From an observation platform way above, we stood and watched in amazement as dozens of excavators filled dozens of trucks (we were so high above the mine, they looked like dinky toys!) with freshly dug rock, and drove off to processing areas to extract the precious metals.  It’s a 24/7 extraction process, which they estimate could produce 10.7 million ounces of gold.

Contrary to what people had told us, we thoroughly enjoyed crossing Northern Ontario – all  1400 kms of it!  Mile upon mile of boreal forest, with the Trans Canada Hwy cutting right through it.  Lots of road side warnings about wandering Moose  (no such luck!) . Tiny little settlements, with houses very close to the main road – we assume this negates any snow clearance issues – and dotted amongst all of this are pristine little lakes to feed the eye.    Employment in this ‘back of beyond’ area is rife with a huge logging, pulp and paper industry, lots of hydro-electricity stations and further gold mines.  Presumably job opportunities far outweigh the extremes in climate  – very long, cold, snowy winters and short, hot, humid summers.

Determined to make this a restful holiday, we crossed Ontario over three nights.  Veilleux Campground near Hearst was at the end of 3km of bumpy dirt road, which made for some discomfort for both Lulu and her passengers!  By this time we were used to having no phone signal or WIFI, but at least there was electricity and water.  Wild Goose Lake Campsite, near Ignace,  was a blissful, shaded site for our second night.  We arrived early enough to enjoy two hour’s canoeing on the lake in the late afternoon sunshine.  Beautifully peaceful, we had the lake to ourselves, with the only sound being the gentle lap of our paddles.

Larger, and more spectacular lakes along with dramatic hills and rocky outcrops began to appear as we approached Nipigon.  A very clever mobile phone app called ‘Gas Buddy’ led us to the cheapest petrol in Nipigon  – not only were we served by a very helpful chap, but they served free coffee to boot!   As you can imagine, petrol is our biggest outlay – Gas Buddy has become a close ally!  We were humbled to visit the Terry Fox Memorial near Thunder Bay.  Terry Fox did much to raise the profile of cancer and its treatment, when in 1980 he attempted to run a marathon-a-day across Canada, with a prosthetic leg and suffering from bone cancer.  Due to recurrence of the cancer he had to give up at 3,339 miles (5373 km), but his personal courage had captivated Canadians, and revolutionized fund raising.   He was given all sorts of awards for his bravery and died shortly afterwards.

Sandbar Provincial Park was our final overnight stop in Ontario – deep in the trees, we were ‘confined to Lulu’ as a thunderstorm broke over us that evening.  Mosquitoes were swarming in the warm, wet conditions.  Insect repellent is rapidly becoming another ally on this trip!  Entering Manitoba (province no 7),   the campsite at West Hawk Lake Provincial Park gave welcome relief from the heat.  Crashing thunder and torrential rain woke us the following morning, and we were thankful we were NOT in a tent!  Heading ever further west, and still on the Trans Canada Highway, the forests, lakes and hills eventually give way to flat grasslands  – the beginnings of the Prairies.  Just as we noticed the change in geology, so we passed the Centre of Canada!

Winnipeg, capitol of Manitoba, is at the fork of the Red River and the Assiniboine River.  Thousands of years of trading has benefitted from this location – river travel being easier than non-existent roads in the past.  The Forks is now the central tourist area in Winnipeg and includes a huge market with central eating area – food from whatever country you wish, and all in the wonderful friendly, happy atmosphere of the ‘Peggies’  (people from Winnipeg).  The Town and Country Campground on the edge of the city, provided a good rest after the rigors of city sightseeing.

West of Winnipeg, and across Manitoba . . . . the Prairies  . . . .the subject of another blog!  See you next time . . .