Author: malyoga

Prince Edward Island (province No 4 for us)- known locally as PEI – is a large island in the Gulf of St Lawrence, known for its rich red soil,  red and white sandy beaches, and very fertile farmland.  25 % of Canada’s potatoes are produced in PEI.  The Confederation Bridge – an amazing eight mile long structure, which includes an extra high bit in the middle for the big ships – provides access to the island from New Brunswick. Charlottetown is the capital, where we enjoyed a self guided tour of neat and tidy streets with the usual timber framed, wooden clad, colourful houses.  It’s clear that the more wealthy house owners stick to white!  Note that there are no garden fences or obvious boundaries.

Charlottetown KOA campground allocated us a lovely sheltered site on the West River – and with G&T’s to the fore, we watched the sun go down! An easy day’s driving saw us covering a large chunk of the island, from lovely sandy beaches in the north

to a quiet walk along the Trans-Canada-Trail,

which goes quite literally from one side of Canada to another  ( we will be getting our 10,000 steps in all the way across the country!).  Sadly the temperature has dropped steadily as we’ve traveled east.  The first campfire of the trip at Ocean View Campsite, near Murray’s Harbour, was abandoned after half an hour.  Despite the heat of the fire, it was just too cold to enjoy sitting out there!  Perhaps we should have been ‘Canadian’ and wrapped up in blankets!

A small version of our cross-channel ferry provides access from the east end of PEI to Nova Scotia (province No 5).  The 45 minute journey takes you from Wood Island to Caribou.  Lulu seemed tiny compared to the enormous articulated lorries surrounding her.  

Coffee and lunch stops are always a challenge.  Picnic areas are fairly common, but they never seem to appear when we’re ready to stop (a common problem, I suspect!)  Peter’s  love of maps normally finds us somewhere off the beaten track.  North Eastern Nova Scotia, is sparsely populated and heavily forested, but full of Provincial Parks.  Beaver Mountain Provincial Park provided us with a good two hour walk through the trees  – spring violets were everywhere -before lunch.

Linwood Harbour campsite near Monastery was our destination that night.  Again we overlooked the water – but the proximity of water plus the threat of rain, meant the mosquitoes and black flies were out in force.  Damp wood on the campfire smoked ’em out!  With temperatures dropping to near 0C at night, we hunkered down.  Heavy rain and high winds rocked Lulu all night.

Sunshine greeted us the following morning however, and the Cabot Trail beckoned. (John Cabot having discovered the North American coast in 1497)  The trail is 298 km long and winds up, down and around the Cape Breton highlands.  Having been very much a part of my school geography lessons, we couldn’t wait to experience it.   Before settling into our campsite at Cheticamp, we took advantage of the brilliant evening sunshine and walked the Skyline Walk – along a ridge with beautiful views over the sea and the highlands.

Weather forecasts had warned us of heavy rain – they weren’t kidding!  Local shops and a gallery kept us occupied, and eavesdropping in a local cafe reminded us that we were in an Acadian area.  (17th century descendants of the French and/or Indigenous people of Acadia). The locals talk in a very natural mix of French and English. The Scottish influence was also noted – lots of Celtic folklore, not to mention Royal Wedding Fever!

Twenty four hours of rain left the Highlands shrouded in mist, but our itchy feet got the better of us, and we decided to push on.

We had read that driving the trail has it’s challenges  – hair pin bends, steep inclines and descents  – all part of the Reynolds adventure!  Intermittent heavy rain continued throughout the day, and there was thick fog/cloud over every high point.   Add to this the hundreds of runners (on our side of the road!) tackling the Relay for Life  (running the whole of the Cabot Trail in 24 hours in Relay Teams) – and you will get the picture!  A very friendly policeman stopped us right on top of a mountain.  He was dripping wet and must have been cold, but with a big welcoming smile “Well, you guys have chosen a ‘real good day’ to come up here!”  and laughingly sent us on our way.  Probably thinking – Crazy Brits!!

In an effort to get away from the rain and fog, we stopped for the night in another KOA at North Sydney, still on Cape Breton Island, and overlooking the entrance channel to Bras d’Or Lake, which is a huge UNESCO biosphere reserve.

 

Evening sunshine lifted our spirits, as did a fellow RV’er who was practicing his bagpipes outside!  Given that it was close to 0C and with a cold north wind, I’m afraid none of us dared to escape the warmth of our RV’s to cheer him on!  His hands and lips must have been frozen . . . . .or maybe there was some whiskey involved?

Peter’s wish was fulfilled today as we visited Louisbourg French Colonial Fort on the south eastern shores of Cape Breton.  Louisbourg was a thriving French colony in the 1700’s, but two British invasions destroyed it completely.  In the 1960’s, the Canadian government started a huge project to reconstruct about one quarter of the original town and fortifications.  It’s an impressive effort – and provided us with several hours of exploring and walking around the coastal ruins.

We’ve clocked 3,150 km as of today . . . . . inbuilt propane tank has been refilled (central heating has been a real boon) . . . . . don’t even think about the amount of petrol we’re getting through!  Hopefully Canada’s wide open spaces can absorb our heavy carbon footprint!

The adventure continues . . . . . . .

Travelling east from Montreal to Quebec City was a joy.  The Trans Canada Highway proved its worth, in that it is fast and fairly smooth going.  We used the more scenic routes through smaller towns when it was time for coffee, lunch  and/or a change of driver.  Passing through several ‘English’ named towns – Sherbrooke, Richmond, Warwick – we stopped for a coffee in Waterloo.  In typical Canadian style, we were warmly greeted, told to sit ‘where you like’ and within seconds the waitress appeared at the table with two mugs of steaming, hot, black coffee.  She’s happy to change them for something else, but perhaps this country is more caffeine driven than we knew!

 

Whilst on the subject of drink, some of you may not know of the archaic licensing laws in Canada  – and they change, from province to province.  To buy a bottle of wine in Ontario, you need to go to the LCBO – Liquor Control Board of Ontario.  In Quebec, we discovered it’s the SAQ – Societe de Alcol de Quebec. In New Brunswick, it’s the Alcohol Store!  A little research needed in each province, but I’ll drink to that!  Not so easy as buying a bottle of wine, or gin, from the shelves in Morrisons!

Camping de la Joie near Quebec City was not just a lovely quiet, tree lined site, but provided an excellent shuttle service into the city – a very comfortable car, driven by the owner – so no need for taxis or buses.   A Guided Walking Tour of the old walled city, with an inspirational guide, rattled my brain as I was reminded of my school history lessons – Samuel de Champlain, founder of Quebec, (and the beginnings of the Canadian nation) and nasty battles on the Plains of Abraham between the British and the French.    Walking the Walls, gives a bird’s eye view of  brightly painted tin roofs (which show up in the snow), tiny windows (due to the cost of glass which was originally shipped from France), stone walls covered with mortar (to protect from the freezing weather) and an astounding array of architecture.

From the world famous Chateau Frontenac Hotel, built by the Canadian Pacific Railways in 1893, to the first Anglican Cathedral outside Europe, a copy of St Martin’s in the Field, built in 1804.  All with a very French atmosphere – almost Parisian like.

Our cholesterol levels must have gone through the roof as we sampled a local delicacy – Poutine – every house has its own recipe!  Bite sized pieces of rabbit, tiny curds of local cheese, and French fries – all covered in thyme and garlic flavoured gravy – I rest my case!

Continuing north east along the southern side of the St Lawrence River, and turning south following the US border, we crossed into New Brunswick.  Beautiful scenery with the Laurentian mountains on one side and the beginnings of the Appalachians on the other.   Lakes and huge swathes of Silver Birch and Pine Forest, as far as the eye could see.  Mulherin’s Campground, near Grand Falls had a nice lakeside site for us – the owners were happy to allow us to park for the night, even though they were not officially open.  The high-pitched call of the night frogs around the lake certainly signaled springtime, even if the locals weren’t ready for us tourists yet! 

Further south and east, the incredible amounts of water flowing over Grand Falls provided an impressive site – Visiting so soon after the devastating local floods, meant that water levels were very high.  The St John River drops over a cliff edge here and into a deep gorge – totally unspoiled by tourism (unlike Niagara!) we felt privileged to have seen it. 

Stopping to see the longest covered bridge in the world at Hartland was a further treat.  Sadly Lulu is too high and wide to travel through any of these bridges – shorter versions are dotted all over New Brunswick.

 

Fredericton, the capital of New Brunswick, boasts wide, tree lined avenues with beautifully maintained Georgian and Victorian houses.  The Beaverbrook Art Gallery gave us a real insight into Canadian art. Lord Beaverbrook’s collection (he was born in a tiny village not far from my childhood home) was a gift to the town, and includes many international artists as well.  Sunbury Oromocto Campground near Fredericton, provided another lakeside site – just opened for the season, as it’s a bank holiday weekend here.  Queen Victoria’s birthday has always been celebrated.  Fitting that Harry and Meghan’s wedding should fall on the same weekend, although I had to be content with internet coverage, as the TV signals from Lulu, are almost non-existent!

Fundy National Park has been high on Peter’s bucket list.  Inheriting some of his father’s love of geology, Hopewell Rocks on the Bay of Fundy, was our weekend destination.  Ponderosa Pines campground has proved its worth, with good hard standing for Lulu (much needed as it is now raining!) and only 3 km from the Rocks.  At this point on the Bay of Fundy, the tidal range can be as much as 14 ft.  For three hours either side of low tide, you can walk on the “ocean floor”, looking almost skywards to see the high tide line on the rocks. At high tide (and in season) you can kayak around the tops of the rocks, in 14 ft of water, very near the shoreline!

 

 

 

 

 

We left home two weeks ago – and have covered 2050  km, so far.  Onwards we go!

Lulu  (the Leprachaun), will be our home for the next four months.  Spending our first night in a campsite very near the Motor Home depot, proved very useful.

The very helpful staff at Motor Home Travel, sorted out various niggles, and sent us on our way rejoicing!  As you will see from the map below, we plan to do a big figure of eight  – from Toronto, east, to Newfoundland – then back across northern Ontario, and west, to Vancouver – and back to Toronto.

Stopping for a photo call outside my childhood home, proved a poignant moment  – such a tiny little place, but full of happy memories   – long hot summers, snowy yet sunny winters – wonderful that we all remember the good times, and not the bad!

Heading east, we kept well north of the busy roads around Toronto, travelling mostly on Hwy 7/21 and 40.  First lesson is that Canadian road surfaces are terrible. Thanks to extreme frosts in the winter, with constant snow ploughing and salting, followed by extreme heat in the summer, the roads heave.  Believe me, the potholes in Herefordshire are nothing compared to Canada! The Motor Home Owners amongst you will know, that everything must be stowed safely before hitting the road. Despite this, we’ve had the fridge door fly open (not locked properly), and the cushion above the driver’s head, landing on the driver!  All part of the fun!

By far the quickest route for us would have been Hwy 401, which is part of the TransCanada Highway.  The road surface is kept in pretty good nick, and you can travel at motorway speed (100km/hr).  Miles are covered quickly, but conversation is well nigh impossible, thanks to the road noise!  To keep our sanity, we took several detours.

We loved the Thousand Island Parkway – a blissful area, of little islands dotted about in the St Lawrence River.  Gorgeous houses (both mansions and cottages) –  some enjoying an island to themselves and only reached by boat.

Too much time on the back roads meant we were too late to get to the intended campsite for the night.  Second lesson of the week, is to ring ahead and book, even though this is low season and campsites (if open at all) are practically empty.  In the end, we located a KOA  – Kampgrounds Of America.  These are huge sites, with all facilities, and have a much longer season than some of the smaller sites that we would prefer.

Third lesson of the week, is that Mother’s Day, is a HUGE commercial celebration here in North America.  There was one space left on the KOA site at Brighton – yes, you read this correctly.  Most of the names in this area are either English or Scottish.  This was a fabulous introduction to the Canadian love of the outdoors.  Despite quite cool temperatures and a chilly wind, every family had lit their campfire (every site has its own fire pit), and huge families were huddled around the fire, with winter coats and woolly hats on.  Rather like the Brits on a beach holiday, cuddling up behind a windshield . . . . . . if that’s your plan for the weekend, then ignore the weather and get on with it!

The TransCanada Hwy was our principal route again yesterday, but with a very pleasant detour along the Long Sault Parkway, which skirts the St Lawrence River.  Glorious sunshine, bright green grass and trees just bursting into bud, ripples glistening in the sun, and the odd honk of the Canada Geese made a very memorable stop for lunch.

KOA Montreal South has been our refuge for two nights.  Warm, bright sunshine made sightseeing in Montreal all the more pleasurable.  A horse and buggy tour gave us an insight into a bit of history.  Exercise became the aim of the day, as we huffed and puffed our way up Mont Real (Montreal’s very own mountain) – but were rewarded with some fantastic views.  Pavement cafes and very French architecture adorn every street.  Every language in the world being spoken on every corner.  Despite it being a Sunday, there was a real buzz – from student to tourist, from street vendors to taxi drivers – everyone very helpful and friendly.

Is it really only a week since we left home?

After a year of planning, research and excitement, we are finally on our way!  Why is there always so much to do when preparing to go on holiday?

Tick list complete . . . . . Hair cuts, dentist visits, garden sorted, allotment handed over (thanks Phil!), house sitters organized (thanks Wendy),  emails and contacts made for the blog, emotional goodbyes to gorgeous grandchildren and wonderful daughters.  Our ears are ringing with “When is it you go?” and “Haven’t you gone yet?”.  Huge thanks for all your heartfelt messages to send us on our way.

So, here we go!

 

Peter and Marilyn – Retired and wrinkled, but with a sense of adventure – taking an opportunity as it arises, and thanking everyone involved for supporting our numerous activities whilst we’re away.

In two weeks time we set off for the trip of a life time.  Having spent seventeen formative years of my childhood on a farm north of Toronto, Ontario, I have always dreamed of visiting every province in Canada.  Given the length and breadth of this wonderful country, this will be quite a feat.  Approximately 25,000 km of driving over four months in a 24 ft Motor Home! With military precision, maps have been studied, campsites researched and endless lists have been created.

We dream of rocky coastlines, majestic mountains, miles of swamp and bush, mirages over the prairies, all intercepted with campsites on quiet lakes or rivers, and the ever friendly Canadian people making us feel at home.  The reality may be laced with the odd hiccough, not least the Monstrous Mosquitoes!

As I prepare to publish this, Toronto has been brought to a standstill by a three day ice storm and most campsites east of Toronto are still closed due to cold weather and snow.  Hence, we are packing for four seasons!

Feel free to join us on our travels via the blog – we’d love your company.

See you in September.

 

 

 

Thanks for joining me!

Good company in a journey makes the way seem shorter. — Izaak Walton