Author: malyoga

The winds turned against us again between Mauritius and Durban – two days of very rough seas in a Force 8 gale, had everyone rock and rolling about the ship!

Getting to Zululand: We were very excited to arrive in Durban and join sixteen other passengers for a four-day trip to a Game Reserve.  We saw very little of Durban on our way out of the city, though the enormous football stadium built for the World Cup in 2010 stood out above the tree line.

 A four-hour drive took us up the east coast of South Africa to Richards Bay, where we turned inland through the area known as Zululand.  Plantations of eucalyptus, sugar cane and macadamia nuts were slowly replaced with rolling hills of savannah.   Zulu homesteads known as ‘kraal’ were tradionally a group of beehive shaped houses built around a cattle enclosure.  The round houses were cost effective and comfortable.  Most importantly, they were resistant to strong winds.  Zulu beliefs are formed around ancestral spirits.  Modern houses still have at least one beehive shaped house nearby. To this day, the round houses are the site for ritual worship of the ancestors. 

Biyela Lodge: Zulus practice and believe in ‘ubuntu’, meaning humanness or good disposition.  This was brought home to us at the wonderful Biyela Lodge.  We were met at the gate by smiling guides and suitcases were carefully stowed away (and found in our suites later), before we embarked on our first experience of travel within this 60,000-hectare private reserve.  Nine-seater land cruisers negotiated uneven, rutted dirt roads whilst our very amicable and knowledgeable guides managed to keep the vehicles upright and stimulate us with their enthusiasm.  What a jolt to our senses having spent two months onboard ship, to be plunged into the African Savannah.  The silence and the immense openness astounded us.  Imagine our excitement at coming across both zebra and antelope before we’d even reached the lodge!

The staff welcomed us with huge smiles and the offer of cool flannels and refreshing drinks.  Biyela Lodge consists of twelve stand-alone suites built into the hillside – built by members of the various local communities.  The suites were pure luxury – totally private and very spacious.  Having lived for two months with the restrictions in our ship’s cabin, we were totally overawed by the capaciousness of our suite.  Huge windows and an enormous balcony afforded wide ranging views over the iMfolozi River which runs through the reserve. 

Early morning and late afternoon safaris were the order of the day – siestas and lazing by the pool filled in the gaps.  Food was delicious and beautifully presented – including sundowners when out on safari! 

But it was the animals we had come to see, and we were not disappointed.  Three sorts of antelope, zebra, buffalo, white rhino, wildebeest, warthog, giraffe and elephant, not to mention numerous birds, lizards and tortoise. Just a few photos, in order that you don’t have too much to download.

The final evening’s treat was an outdoor BBQ, all beautifully served by candlelight whilst the guides walked continual circuits around us with torches to ensure no wildlife approached.  Zulu warriors danced and chanted for us – a perfect end to the evening.  None of us had our cameras with us, as this was all a last-minute surprise. 

I’m sure you can imagine how animated we were (the guides were beside themselves!) when fresh lion tracks were discovered around our BBQ site the following morning, as we were being driven back to the gate!  A suitable finale to a very special few days. 

Mauritius is a tiny island, just 790 square miles in area, situated in the Southern Indian Ocean, east of Madagascar. After six days at sea, we were all desperate to put our feet onto land.  About 350 of us had signed up for a day’s tour of the island!  Hence, we had to face VERY long queues of people checking in for one of the ten coaches that were to be ‘home’ for the day.  (Oh, the joys of cruising – NOT!)

Borealis berthed in Port Luis, the island’s capital on the Northwest shore.  Heading south, through the many miles of sugar plantations, we enjoyed good views of the western Coast, before heading inland, and upwards into the mountainous area to the Black River Gorges National Park.  A 100-metre waterfall made a good photo stop – it would be even more spectacular in the rainy winter season. 

The ’Earth of Seven Colours’ intrigued us – this is a geological wonderment of basalt rocks which, over millions of years have, through chemical alterations, formed iron and aluminium oxides which produce the colourful shades. 

The population of 1.3 million comprises 52% Hindus and 33% Christians.  English, French, Creole, and Chinese are spoken.  The government provides free healthcare and free education.  However, there are NO benefits paid out. People are expected to work – our guide stated, “if you choose to have four children, then you choose to support and pay for them!”.  Pensions are very small, and the family is expected to care for elderly relatives in their homes as necessary.  Family values and a hard-working ethic are the norm.

Still in the mountains, we visited a Sacred Hindu area, which included two enormous (33 metre high) statues of Lord Shiva and Lord Durga.  Shiva is the spiritual God of Hinduism.  Half a million pilgrims flock to this site every year to celebrate the Great Night of Lord Shiva – roads, walkways and huge car parks have been built to accommodate this most sacred of festivals. 

We wondered what the monkeys must make of it all!  No doubt they are well fed . . .Long tailed monkeys, deer and wild boar make up the few wild animals found on Mauritius.

The Hindu Temple is on the edge of a sacred lake – several smaller, respected, and revered statues of various Hindu Gods stand in the water – the waters are holy and treated by local worshippers rather like the waters of the Ganges.  Thousands of fish frequent the waters, and we were amused to watch a group of scruffy, local cats sitting on the water’s edge waiting for their moment to pounce on a fish as it came just too close to the edge to resist!

Having enjoyed a buffet lunch in a mountainside restaurant, we stopped again to take in spectacular views, on a misty afternoon.  A pair of Paille-en-Queue (which translates to Straw Tails) relished the afternoon thermals in the mountain air.  These birds have tails that are half their length making them very strong fliers.  Hence they have become the emblem on Air Mauritius planes (sorry no photos of them  . . .too quick for me)

Our last photo call was above a volcanic crater left from the original eruption which formed the island.  Millions of years of prolific green growth make the crater almost impossible to see.  Our efforts were not helped by a torrential rain shower which sent us running back to the bus for shelter. 

I should mention our bus driver who thought he was Lewis Hamilton and drove like a lunatic for the entire trip!  The roads are good but very narrow with hairpin bends up and down the mountain.  Torrents of rain did little to diminish his determination to break all speed limits.  Those of us sitting in window seats held our breath as we skirted the very edges of the road – deep ditches just waiting to gobble us up!  Imagine the hilarity from all corners of the bus, as the rain began pouring in through the air conditioning ducts as we hurtled back down the mountain!  One couple put an umbrella up, which sent the water onto the passengers in front and behind!  Having already been caught in the rain, many of us looked as if we’d been through the shower – the added deluge from a leaking bus had us all in hysterics!  Did the bus driver slow down?  NO!  He just grinned in the mirror and sped on . . . . . .Borealis was such a welcome site.  Much needed cups of tea and dry clothes afforded us the pleasure of watching the sun set as we set sail for our next port – Durban in South Africa.

 

Sizzling Singapore

Heading north-west from Indonesia through the Java Sea was like being in the English Channel – so many ships!  We had cruised the world’s two main oceans without seeing a single ship, hence this busy shipping area gave us something else to talk about . . . .

Having visited Singapore in 2015, we were intrigued to look more deeply into its history and culture.  We had forgotten that this is indeed a SIZZINGLY hot and sticky city, made all the worse by jumping on and off an air-conditioned bus on a guided city tour.  Those of you enduring a long cold, wet winter have no sympathy, I’m sure!

 

For anyone who has never visited this thriving place – a VERY brief history . . . . Sir Thomas Raffles established a thriving trading post here in the early 19^th century.  It eventually became part of Malaysia before becoming a fully independent state in 1965.  Prime Ministers since then (all from the same family) have established strict rules which are heavily enforced – a few examples . . .no chewing gum in public, no eating or drinking on public transport, respect your elders (comes into its own on the metro!), cleanliness is paramount (no litter!) . . . drugs, rape and domestic violence are not tolerated and yes, they have a death penalty.  It may be like living in a ‘controlled state’ but it works!  Singapore is now one of the most powerful financial and industrial states on the planet with a VERY low employment rate.  Chinese, Malaysia and Indian are the three official ethnic groups.  It’s an extremely diverse culture but everyone strives for individualism and excellence. 

An early morning visit to Mount Faber afforded beautiful views over the busy harbour and over the extensive living areas. 

Chinatown pulses with restaurants, cafes, markets, and temples  – both Chinese and Hindu.  We were assured that everyone lives peacefully together.  Hindu temples the world over ask that shoes are removed before entering.  My goodness, the pavements were red-hot – real sole burning stuff!

The National Botanical Gardens are a complete joy.  A heady mix of colour and scent – with thousands of different orchids growing in their preferred habitat (i.e., hot and humid!)

A visit to Raffles Hotel  – famous for its Singapore Slings – was a let-down  for us.  It seemed like the entire contents of TWO cruise ships had joined the queue for the Long Bar! We were not enthralled with the thought of an hours wait in the crippling heat, so we unobtrusively left the queue and nipped across the road to a quiet little café, where we relaxed over a cup of iced tea!  Not quite a Singapore Sling (or non-alcoholic in our case) but the peace and quiet away from hundreds of cruise passengers was bliss!  We had been lucky enough to enjoy Raffles and its Slings in 2015, so felt replete. 

Later in the day, we took the very clean and orderly MRT (metro to you and me) to the Gardens on the Bay.  This huge green ‘lung’ is a credit to Singapore. 

We were in awe of a sculpture exhibition of hundreds of animals, threading their way around the gardens – all endangered species. What a clever way to get the message to many thousands of people!

 

The growth on the Super Trees has progressed in leaps and bounds.  Two huge glass domes have been added – the Floral Dome and the Cloud Forest – both spectacular. 

We ended our whistle stop visit to this magical place by watching the Sound and Light Show which takes place nightly on the Super Trees.  The trees come to life with impressive colours and a cacophony of musical sound.  Hundreds of people attend – no chairs, no entry fee.  Just sit on the ground and look upwards.  What an atmosphere! 

Tantalizing Thailand

A further day’s cruising in a north-westerly direction conveyed us to the island of Phuket in southern Thailand.  A gorgeous sunrise over the deep-water bay greeted us. 

An early start gave us a two-hour bus ride (very comfortable air-conditioned coaches) up the east side of the island, through the main city and into the countryside.  Huge plantations of rubber trees, coconut palms and oil palms lined the roadsides.  Housing here is, once again, very rudimentary for the majority, but no litter anywhere. (phew!)  Most houses have a Buddhist shrine outside – the main faith of the country being Buddhism.  Huge ornate temples were plentiful, often with a giant Buddha in the grounds.  Passing over the bridge and through a checkpoint, we had arrived on the Thai mainland. 

A further half an hour’s journey carried us to a jetty on the edge of Phang Nga Bay where we were loaded onto a series of Long Tailed Boats.  These are traditional wooden boats – often decorated beautifully – about 30 metres long with a canopy.  They run on second-hand car or truck engines and are VERY noisy! The driveshaft is a long metal rod which extends backwards from the boat (hence the name!) with a propeller on the end.  The engineers amongst you will be able to work out the intricate workings for yourselves. . .

Our boat journey began through mangrove swamps before some AWESOME scenery began to appear in front of us.  Incredible geological features formed by fault movements, have been pushed upwards out of the sea.  These massive limestone blocks have sheer cliffs, enormous overhangs, and many caves.

After millions of years, they are now covered in verdant vegetation.  Each ‘block’ or island has been named (often with an animal name), and the guides took great delight in pointing out James Bond Island.  This distinctive feature was used in 1974 for “The Man with the Golden Gun” which has given this area international recognition.  The local name for it translates to Nail Island – very appropriate we thought!  We wondered how on earth it stays standing!!

Exhilarated after more than an hour on the water, we were deposited on a jetty at Panyee Village for lunch.  A floating Muslim village that was settled 200 years ago, now boasts its own school, its own Mosque and even a floating football pitch!  I can only guess that tourism must be their main income.  Three hundred of us descended for lunch – a very good buffet from very friendly people.  We were encouraged to walk through the village afterwards where every passageway held numerous market stalls.  You guessed it!  Yet more cheap pearl necklaces and T-shirts!! 

The Long-Tailed Boats dutifully returned to collect us, for the half hour’s whizz across the water back to our waiting buses.  A visit to the Golden Cave Temple served to break up the two-hour trip back to Borealis.  A golden reclining Buddha awaited us in the cave, but we could only look (no photos).  We wanted to respect the numerous ladies on a Buddha temple pilgrimage who were ardently praying when we visited.  Our bus driver needed their prayers, as we got held up in late afternoon traffic – drivers and guides are under strict instructions to return us to the ship within a time frame, ready for us to set sail again.  It was ‘touch and go’ . . . .

CROSSING THE EQUATOR

If you’re following us on a map, you will be aware that we have crossed the Equator a few times.  The ships horn has just been blown again, (11am on 18^th March) telling us that we’ve crossed it going south across the Indian Ocean.   The mandatory ‘ceremony’ was held on one of our crossings last week.  King Neptune and his mermaids arrived ready to ‘punish’ several members of staff (including the Captain) siting their guilt at providing us all with ‘such a good time’!  “Guilty, Guilty, Guilty!”  we all yelled, upon which ice cubes were tipped down their backs before being pushed into the pool fully clothed.  A bit of fun to while away the time on one of our numerous ‘sea-days’.

 Komodo Island

Heading south-west from Papua New Guinea, we cruised through the Torres Strait (which required having a pilot onboard, as the Strait is fairly narrow), then through the Arafura Sea, passing East Timor and many other small islands before reaching Komodo Island.  Strict rules dictate that you are not permitted ashore unless you are on an organized trip.  Komodo Island is largely a National Park.

The jetty here is not deep enough for big cruise ships – hence we were anchored in the bay and our lifeboats ‘tendered’ us ashore.  We were led in groups (the nightmare of cruising hits again!) by our local guides along the very long jetty and into the ‘dry’ jungle. 

We were delighted to see a lot of GREEN thanks to it being rainy season, though we were lucky enough to have a dry day.  Several carefully constructed paths meant that we didn’t all follow the same route.  However, we were all THRILLED to encounter several Komodo Dragons roaming in the jungle.  Despite huge numbers of gawking tourists, they were making their way to a watering hole – trained rangers who each carried a long-forked stick (would they have really done the job, I asked myself?) – made sure that we were moved away if they were heading in our direction.  Three thousand of these creatures live on two or three of the islands – they don’t like the water but will swim if necessary.  They are carnivorous and live on wild horses, deer, snakes, monkeys, and water buffalo all of which live and breed on the islands.  I should add that we were given stern instructions NOT to wear red, and NOT to visit at all if we had any open wounds.  The dragons can smell blood from a good distance!  They have a snake-like tongue which darts out of their mouths as they move  and they can move quite fast to catch their prey. 

They certainly wouldn’t win any beauty competitions, but to see these beasts in the wild was a privilege.  They dig holes in the ground to lay their eggs.  Rather like turtles, the hatchlings must look after themselves once born.  An adult dragon would eat them, so they spend their first three years of life up in the trees.  The adults get too big to climb trees, so it is left to mother nature to prepare them for adulthood. 

They can live for up to 60 years, can grow up to three metres in length and weigh an average of 70 kg.  They are quite agile, have sturdy legs, strong necks and long tails.  We were intrigued by a couple of deer who were grazing happily very near the huts and markets on the beach  – they were clever enough to have worked out that they would be safe being that close to the community  – the rangers would keep the dragons well away from the little children. 

Pink Beach, on Komodo Island

We left the dragons in peace and then had to run the gauntlet of the local market stalls – every stall sold the same T shirts and cheap pearl necklaces, and every stall holder was ‘in your face’ – NOT a pleasant experience!

The next adventure began as we were loaded (literally!) – bottoms first and man-handled!! onto very dodgy wooden boats where most of us had to sit on the floor! (thank goodness for yoga!)  The ship provided us with a packed lunch which we tucked into during our half hour trip across the bay where we were delivered onto a gorgeous beach.

We were blessed with no rain (despite heavy grey clouds) and enjoyed snorkelling just yards from the beach over more coral reef – loads of colourful fish delighted us, and there was time for a bit of “bronzy-bronzy” on the beach. (UV rays are strong in this part of the world) . The sand itself appeared white until you looked closely.  – Enlarge the photo below and you will see the tiny particles of pink coral. 

Leaving the island in the late afternoon, was a real pinch me moment.  To be in such a remote part of the world, and so far from home, where we were able to relish the beautiful landscapes and experience the local cultures was a joy. 

The Island of Lombok

A night of rough seas (yes, again!) made us slightly late arriving into Lombok.  This did not diminish the enthusiasm of the traditional musicians as they performed for us on the jetty.

The modern cruise ship terminal gave a false impression of what we were about to see.  An hour’s coach journey through the city of Lembar, and then into the countryside brought us to a local village.  Sadly the roadsides were full of filth and rubbish.  Ditches full of muddy water (with rubbish floating in them) did nothing to improve the dilapidated shacks that most people live in – corrugated iron walls and roofs – barely any windows  (it’s always hot and humid). 

The majority of people get around by motorbike – helmets are supposed to be worn in the city but this is quite obviously not enforced.  The population is 85% Muslim and there are more than 1000 mosques!  The mosques and government buildings are all modern and well built.  This simply makes the levels of poverty even more obvious.  Our guide, dressed in the traditional costume, did his best to convince us that his country was ‘good’. 

Every family has a rice paddy – varying sizes depending on what they’ve inherited and how many children they have.  Back yards are used to grow whatever they need – the warm, wet climate means they often harvest rice three times a year.  The rice is not exported – in this part of the world, they eat rice with all three meals per day (our Philippine crew onboard eat the same)

Notwithstanding their hardship, the locals had big smiles on their faces, were happy to be photographed and appeared to be ‘happy with their lot’.  The children stole our hearts – so contented and loved.  We visited on the day before Ramadan began.  Oh, my goodness, we have SO MUCH to be grateful for!

We were ALL so thankful to be back on the ship and to have a hot shower.  Local dancers came onboard once we were all aboard and performed for us in their exquisite costumes.  A pleasant end to another humbling day. 

  

From Cairns we headed north along the Australian coast, before turning north-east across the Coral Sea to Alotau, situated on Milne Bay in Papua New Guinea.  

Six hundred islands make up Papua New Guinea – More than eight hundred different tribes, all of whom speak their own language, are spread over this large underdeveloped country. Most live in geographic isolation as the area is very mountainous and, in some places, impossible to travel between areas or islands.    These people survive by subsistence farming.  The vast majority of the population live below the poverty line.  Sadly, this was very evident during our short journey from the ship to the Festival site – see below.  Five hundred of us (my cruising nightmare!) were transported in very old minibuses which ran a shuttle service from the ship.  Very basic plastic covered seats and no air conditioning – it was 32C and very humid!  Poorly built roads, run-down shacks and uninviting shops.  A few passengers who braved the heat, reported young men selling  SINGLE cigarettes for $1 just to be able to make ends meet. 

Alotau took full advantage of a cruise ship visit – especially from UK, as PNG is a Commonwealth Country.  The Lik Lik Festival was laid on especially for us.  A vibrant and colourful extravaganza demonstrating their culture and heritage.    

Spectacularly painted bodies  – charcoal used over their skin, water colour paint for the decoration.  All manner of plants and feathers used in headdresses and skirts.  Each tribe has its own costumes and customs.  Several tribal dances were performed for us  – also a young mother, with the most beautiful voice, sang both a lullaby that she sings to her babies, and then wowed us with a rendition of Halleluiah!

War canoes full of chanting warriors raced about the bay in front of us  (and gave a few passengers a go in the canoes!)

Needless to say, there was a great array of market stalls selling hand made wooden carvings and jewellery.  All the stall holders spoke English – it is taught at school  (for those who GO to school).  Everyone was very friendly and full of smiles.  However the big grins took some getting used to – they all chew Betel Nut which is a stimulant and colours their teeth and tongues bright red!  As you can imagine, it shows up well against their very black skin colour! 

The festival went on for the whole morning, whilst groups of passengers were shuttled to and from the ship.  Two hours was enough for most of us  – the heat and humidity were fierce  – as were the warriors! 

In summary, we were given an insight into their culture and heritage, and no doubt increased the pennies in their pockets for a day or two.  Apparently, the ship was giving food parcels out as well.  We all have SO MUCH to be thankful for  – it made us feel very humble

Sydney:

Most of us were up at dawn to witness us passing under Sydney Harbour Bridge with just over a metre to spare!  First light made for some good photographic opportunities! 

We are lucky enough to have seen most of the famous Sydney sites on a previous visit. Hence, we were more than thrilled to meet up with some good friends who had flown down from Brisbane and picked us up from the ship in a hire car.  We spent two glorious days with them exploring places that none of us had been to before.  A good walk along the coast afforded wonderful views of the rocky shores between lovely sandy beaches.

The Royal Botanical Gardens are a delight – with lovely views across to the city and its iconic landmarks.  Despite autumn being around the corner (remember, we are in the Southern Hemisphere) there was plenty of colour.

Day 2 was spent on Manley, a suburb of Sydney, easily reached via a 15 minute ferry ride.  Manley boasts miles of white sandy beaches along with a much more relaxed atmosphere than the city centre.  Catching up with our goddaughter who lives on Manley was the icing on the cake! 

Evening meals were spent revelling in the ambiance of Darling Harbour as we sampled both an Italian restaurant and an Angus Steakhouse whilst continuing  to’ yarn’ with our friends.  As with Charleston, visiting a place with citizens of the country creates a different perspective for us tourists! Thank you P & L . . . .

A blip on the ship:  As we left Sydney, we were awoken by a ‘pipe’ at 11:10pm.  All the electrics had failed – many passengers were still up and plunged into darkness in public toilets or the theatre.  A while later a further ‘pipe’ informed us that the anchor had been dropped, as the ship had ‘lost propulsion’.  We were just outside the Sydney Harbour entrance.  I spent most of that night, sitting on the balcony in the balmy air, unable to think of anything else but ‘what would happen if we were in the middle of the Pacific and the ship had this sort of failure?’ Needless to say, “sailor-boy” husband slept through the lot!  We have never been told what the problem was  (lots of surmising that it was a rather large fuse that blew!) , but the four hour delay meant we were late into our next port.  Well, we’ve got used to that!

Newcastle:

Most of the tours in Newcastle were cancelled due to our late arrival.  However, the local agents managed to set up a last minute ‘scenic tour’ of the city.  Newcastle is the largest exporter of coal in the world – we were moored in the industrial port. 

We counted six colliers lined up out at sea, waiting to come in to be loaded with coal.  The city itself is a university city and has been renovated and brought ‘up market’ in recent years.  However, its miles of white sandy beaches are what makes it such a haven.  Regrettably Newcastle registered a very hot & humid 36C that day!  (a record for Newcastle we were told)  A small group of us braved the heat to walk the Anzac walk – a cleverly built raised walkway over the rocky cliffs with  breath taking views of the city and out to sea. 

Visits to the Cathedral and to one of the Forts were necessarily brief as we all found the heat totally debilitating. We were delighted to get back to our airconditioned ship!

Cairns:  It took two full days sailing to reach Cairns from Newcastle.  I had no idea that Oz was such an enormous country!  The tropical weather stayed with us.  But . . . . . Cairns was very high on our list of expectations and did not disappoint.  A prebooked private tour to the Great Barrier Reef will be talked about for many years to come . . . . .

We were flown by helicopter (just the two of us) out to the far reaches of the reef.  We passed some superb mountainous countryside near Cairns before making our way out to the turquoise waters the reef area and the realization of just how big this reef is. 

As one of the Seven Wonders of the World, it stretches for some 1800 miles and is made up of 100’s of tiny coral islands which support a huge diversity of marine life. 

We landed on a tiny raft in the middle of nowhere and were quickly transferred to a floating platform.  An inspirational and very knowledgeable guide took us snorkelling along the reef.  We were blown away by the beauty of the coral.   Masses of different shapes and sizes – hard coral which doesn’t move, and soft coral which oscillates with the movement of the sea.

 

And so many colours – from deep golden, to blue to pinks, to browns.  And of course, the multitude of different fish of varied shapes and sizes.  Yes, we could see the effects of climate change – small areas of coral were destroyed by the 2011 typhoon that swept through the area  – however we were thrilled to witness the restoration project whereby scientists are sinking metal rods into the reef onto which they attach a piece of live coral.  Within three years, the coral has multiplied significantly. 

Several times I had to surface and spit out sea water, having tried to shout WOW through my snorkel!  My only regret was that I hadn’t thought about getting a waterproof camera to take some photos.  These photos were all taken from a glass bottomed boat or a submersible boat – both of which were part of our amazing day. 

Our return journey was by catamaran and included a demonstration of the digeridoo by some of the aboriginal crew.   

A day to remember!  

And on we go . . . .next stop Papua New Guinea!

Crossing the IDL:

The voyage between Polynesia and New Zealand involved crossing the International Dateline.  I’m happy to report that there were no ‘line-crossing ceremonies’ involving King Neptune, however we did receive a fake Daily Times.  This included a lecture on Modern Writing by Mark Twain and a talk on Modern Physics by Albert Einstein!  We were also promised a ‘Meeting with the Ship’s Cow’  – Sir Mooselot – when we would learn how much milk was actually consumed onboard!  The ship’s entertainment team must have had some negative feedback from customers as they were offering an award-winning show by none other than Elton John!!  

A copy of the Daily Times is always waiting for us on our pillow when we get back to our cabins at night.  In our sleepy and (for some) alcoholic state it would have been easy to get taken in by the ship’s humour . . . . until you read the title – THE DAY THAT NEVER HAPPENED! Crossing the IDL from east to west meant we lost 24 hours  – the 16^th of February did not happen for us! 

Auckland:

New Zealand has always been on our ‘bucket list’ and our brief visit to this fabulous country has only wetted our appetite  – next year’s holiday is already being planned! 

We enjoyed two days in Auckland on the North Island – what a lovely city.  We used the Hop On-Hop Off bus which gave us a good feel for our surroundings.  The Māori section of the museum gave us a good insight into New Zealand’s history – their wood carvings are exquisite  – elaborate and intricate designs bedecked their boats and houses.  The more ostentatious patterns appeared on the chief’s houses. 

The Aquarium had been highly recommended to us, and we were not disappointed.  Designed by Kelly Tarlton, we were treated to an enormous King and Gentoo Penguin colony, as well as the inspirational Shark Tunnel, where sharks and stingrays swam past and over our heads – just wonderful to feel like we were swimming with nature. 

The SkyTower is a ‘must-do’ visit.  The weather was on our side  – phenomenal clear views in all directions from dizzying heights – the SkyTower can be seen from pretty well everywhere in the city.

We were lucky to spend day two on the North Shore and in Devonport.  A very informative guide gave us lots of history and took us to various points of interest.  Typical Devonport houses were built of Kauri wood – a very strong and durable native wood – with wrought iron roofs which were both cheap and fire-resistant.  This pretty community is full of shops and restaurants which kept us entertained for an afternoon before we took the regular and very efficient ferry back to the city centre.

We were very intrigued by ‘Bertie’ a cockatoo who lives in one of the houses, but flies daily to a specific tree overlooking the beach and the road, (just to keep an eye on what’s going on) before returning home to bed at night!

Picton:

Picton is located in a small inlet on the north end of the South Island.  We moored for a day next to a timber yard.  Local Radiata Pine and Douglas Fir are exported from here, along with huge amounts of wood chip which is shipped to Japan. 

Picton itself is a pretty little town, set in some spectacular highlands– when a cruise ship arrives the population is doubled for the day! 

We were thrilled to spend a few hours kayaking in Queen Charlotte sound.  After a hair-raising journey up and over the mountain, we arrived at a small beach where a friendly guide was waiting for us.  Beautiful sunshine and NO WIND made our kayaking very easy.  Just three couples enjoyed the sheer peace of the water.  Whilst paddling across and around the bay, the guide chatted away giving us more history of the area and pointing out any wildlife.  I can’t tell you how pleasurable it was to get away from 900 people for a few hours!!

Milford Sound: 

From Picton, we voyaged down the west side of the South Island to an area known as Fiordland.  Sadly, the weather had changed during our journey and we were once again doing the ‘rock ‘n roll’ in rough seas.  The plan to cruise through three different fiords was aborted due to 65 mph winds and driving rain with visibility down to less than a mile!  Dusky Sound and Doubtful Sound were both ‘non starters’ as it was too dangerous and difficult to enter.  By this time it was early afternoon, and we were all very downhearted, not to mention fed-up with being tossed about!  Was the weather ever going to be on our side?

Third time lucky! Much to our amazement, the entrance to Milford Sound appeared out of the gloom.  As we slowly made our way through the entrance, the clouds began to lift.  124 ml of rain had fallen in the previous 24 hours!!  Hence, all the waterfalls were in full flow, and as the sun began to break through, stunning rainbows emerged.  An unbelievable and totally unexpected ending to the day!

The sea has settled for now, as we make our way to Australia. . . .

We were lulled into a false sense of security in the Hawaiian islands – as soon as we were through the breakwater the rough seas hit us once again!  Activities continued onboard for our four-day voyage to French Polynesia.  The Borealis Bark continues to spread around the ship – the constant moving from air-conditioning to hot, humid weather gives our lungs a hard time  – Barking coughs have become the norm! 

Raiatae

Such was our excitement with the thought of visiting such a far-flung place as French Polynesia, that we raced up to the Observatory lounge straight after lunch to get a front row seat, to witness our entry through the narrow gap in the coral reef that surrounds Raiatea Island.  Sadly, it was not to be!  Having already been informed that all ships tours were cancelled in Raiatea due to heavy overnight storm damage, the weather closed in again.  Visibility was down to less than a mile,  50 mph winds were blowing and torrential rain was falling.  Apparently, the pilot had a major challenge to get onboard, and he then stayed with us for two days – it was considered too dangerous for him to disembark.  Our visit to Raiatea was cancelled totally, and we moved on (or should I say ‘rocked on’) to Tahiti. 

Papeete

Arriving in the early morning, we could see the cloud was right down over the mountains.  Immigration here was very easy – we’d handed our passports in and everything was ‘seen to’ onboard without further input from us.  Papeete is the capital of French Polynesia – I should point out here that Tahiti and French Polynesia are the same thing – made up of 118 small islands, many of which are uninhabited.  Population approximately 350,000. 

The ship moored conveniently in the middle of the city – an easy walk to shops and more importantly a HUGE indoor market, selling EVERYTHING.  Regrettably quite a few of the stall holders didn’t arrive to open their stalls, as (Again!) there had been a lot of overnight storm damage, and (Again!) all our tours were cancelled due to flooded roads and fallen trees.  So . . . we just HAD to shop!  Oh!  And eat!  We were recommended the local dish – a salad of raw tuna, tomatoes & cucumber with a dressing of coconut milk and lime juice. Served with rice – delicious!

The Tiare flower is Tahiti’s symbol of harmony.  It is worn daily by Tahitians and they give them out to visitors  – men & women!

 In true ‘rainy season’ style, the heavens opened for the afternoon.  Roads became rivers and pavements muddy skating rinks. . . .We sailed during the evening, hoping for better things tomorrow . . . . . . . .

Bora Bora

We were awoken not by a beautiful sunrise, but by the sound of the lifeboats being lowered!  These were to be our ‘little ferries’ for the day – Bora Bora’s little jetty area is not deep enough for cruise ships so we had to be ‘tendered’ ashore.  True to form, the Bora Bora government had decreed that there were to be no island tours or visits due (Again!) overnight storm damage.  Yes, you guessed it, the cloud was down over the mountains and everywhere was a muddy mess! 

Not to be discouraged ,we were on the first tender of the day at 07:30 and headed for the only café open for breakfast  – pancakes with maple syrup – well it was Shrove Tuesday!!  We then walked along the local road – no pavements here – local rustic houses sitting in a sea of mud – piles of palm tree fronds having been blown down in the wind – we happened upon a local art gallery just opening its doors.  Every shop or business has someone who speaks English – French being their everyday language.  Having admired the art (but not bought any!) we asked the lady how to get to the beach  – could we walk?  No, she told us – the easiest way from here is to hitch-hike!  She assured us it was safe to do so.  Within minutes, a taxi driver stopped – $5 for the 12 mile journey to the beach. 

We were on the beach by 09:30  – the sun never came out but it was 29C and we both got sunburnt!  Glorious turquoise water and so warm.  Rays (as in Stingrays) swam along very close to shore and seemed very friendly. 

As idyllic as it was, we knew that the rains were due to come in again at midday, hence we asked the taxi to come back for us 2hours later. We were back onboard Borealis and eating lunch as the rain started. 

The tenders worked very hard in the choppy harbour swell as the winds got up.  The result was that everyone was onboard promptly, and we were able to ‘up- anchor’ and sail away a little early (one happy Captain!)

Now heading for New Zealand.. . . . . .

Change in Itinerary

My last entry mentioned that we were all waiting with bated breath to hear the changes in our itinerary due to the problems in the Red Sea/Suez Canal area. 

From Phuket in Thailand, we will head south-west across the Indian Ocean to Mauritius, then to Durban, Cape Town, Namibia, Cape Verde Islands, and Tenerife before arriving back in Southampton on the planned day (17^th April)

I’ll take that, thanks!!

Crossing the Pacific from Mexico to Hawaii was almost a joy!  Calm seas and warm weather encouraged lots of reading in the sun on the balcony. . . However, rough seas returned on day 4 of our 5 day voyage, which meant that we were 6 hrs late arriving in Honolulu.  Our Captain must have heard his passengers getting crabby, as he managed to extend our visit to Honolulu by 24 hrs but it meant that we would not be doing our planned stop to the island of Hilo.  I’m sure you’ll all be assuming (as we are) that we will no longer going through the Suez Canal and Red Sea in April  – This has become a ‘voyage of surprises’ as we await the next change to the itinerary!

Honolulu

What a pleasure it was to feel solid earth under our feet as we arrived in Honolulu.  A very modern city with lots of skyscrapers towering over beautiful white sandy beaches.  Streets are all immaculately clean, with plentiful lush greenery, and colourful shrubs. We appreciated an afternoon of walking and doing a bit of shopping. The city is a major hub for business, finance, hospitality and military defense not only for all the islands of Hawaii but for the whole of Oceania. Two thirds of the total population of the islands live in or near Honolulu – which is on the island of Oahu, meaning ‘gathering place’. 

Discovered by the Polynesians and the Portuguese, but now an American State, the country is very diverse with a huge mixture of cultures.  The locals are very friendly and welcoming.  Our evening’s entertainment in Honolulu was some local Hawaiian schoolgirls showing us the cultural dances. 

Peter enjoyed a self-guided tour of Pearl Harbour taking his time to see and do what he wished.  Meanwhile, I joined a small group of fairly fit cruisers (there are many who are NOT!) to walk the steep path and 170 steps to the top of a Le’ahi Volcanic Crater.  Known locally as the Diamond Head  (original settlers believed there were diamonds up there) – the summit (762 ft above sea level)  affords breath-taking views of the city below and the mountains behind.  The Trade Winds were blowing, but it was a pleasant 24C.  Sadly, we were not the only people up there!

We could NOT visit Honolulu without experiencing Waikiki beach – known worldwide for its turquoise waters, white sands and surfing of all kinds, it lived up to its name! 

Maui

Sadly we were unable to moor at Lahaina due to the devastating fire that obliterated the area 6 months ago.  Instead, we docked at Kahului a busy deep-draft port.  A small group of us – again, the fitter ones! – revelled in an hour’s tour of the north-west of the island of Maui.  We were delighted to see several whales in Maui Bay – they arrive here every year, all the way from Alaska, to give birth – the sheltered bay makes a good ‘nursery’.  Passing through Lahaina was a very emotional experience, as we could see the remains of the 3000 houses destroyed and noted all the toxic debris still to be cleared before rebuilding can begin.  Hurricane strength winds on the day of the fire, blew down power lines which ignited the dry undergrowth.  Thousands of people are still being housed elsewhere.  Our driver/guide was from the area; hence his re-counting of the inferno was extremely poignant. 

Having driven part way up the mountain past some very celebrious houses and the PGA Tour Plantation Golf Course (wowsers!), we enjoyed a good walk through a Rain Forest up to the Pu’u Kukui Watershed.  The name is Hawaiian for ‘Hill of Enlightenment’, a very sacred place for the locals.  Average rainfall up here is 325 inches a year, though much of this precious water never reaches the inhabited lowlands thanks to run-off and erosion.

 

Battling both high winds (those Trade Winds again) and a rocky path, we learned about the ongoing conservation project aimed at preserving the native species of Hawaii.  Again, we were blessed with a highly competent and engaging local guide, who was passionate about his environment and his country of birth. 

Hawaii is now on our list of ‘return to visit properly’ places – much more to discover and enjoy on these beautiful islands! 

We sailed from Maui at 4pm and encountered rough seas within an hour of heading south!  A force 8 gale is now blowing, a 4-metre swell is rocking us about (and has closed the gym, swimming pool and walking deck) and we’ve just been advised that there is a hurricane warning for French Polynesia where we’re headed next! 

More anon, when we’ve weathered the storm . . . . .

Rough Seas

More rough seas accompanied us as we made our way south through the Gulf of Mexico, through the Yucatan Channel and into the Caribbean.  In our imaginations, the Caribbean is a beautiful, blue calm sea – not when winter storms are swirling through in January!

Panama Canal

What a joy it was to finally arrive at the entrance to the Panama Canal on a calm and peaceful early morning.

Rightly referred to as one of the Modern Wonders of the World, this 51-mile canal connects the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans thereby reducing, by some 8000 nautical miles, the journey time for maritime shipping. The French began the construction in 1881 but later abandoned the project.  In 1904 the Americans took on the task, completing and opening it in 1914.  In the late 1990’s Panama assumed the management and operation of the Canal.    Over the many decades of the build approximately 25000 men died.  Yellow fever and malaria were the biggest killers plus terrible working conditions led to many work-based accidents.

This feat of engineering includes three locks rising 85 feet from the Atlantic – the Gatun Locks – which lead into Gatun Lake.  The lake was created by damming a nearby river and a smaller lake.  A further three locks – the Pedro Miguel and a pair known as Miraflores – drop back down to the Pacific Ocean.

In 2016 a further wider lane of locks was added allowing the transit of the very biggest vessels.  Normally 40 ships pass through the canal every 24 hours.  At the moment, due to the drought caused by El Nino, only 22 ships are permitted to pass through.  It is hard to imagine the eye-watering amount of toll fees that ships pay to pass through  – We were told that Borealis would pay about US$200,000!

Our transit made for a fascinating day.  An onboard expert, having already delivered three lectures during the previous sea days, then gave us an up-to-the-minute commentary from the bridge throughout the day. This was broadcast to all outside areas – so that those who wanted a quiet day (or knew it all before!) were not bothered by the tannoy. Bear in mind that we were now in the Tropics – it was 30C and VERY humid.  Spells on the outside decks got shorter as the day wore on – we all needed to acclimatize!   

The day finished with a disappointing announcement from the Captain, informing us that we would only be visiting one of the two planned ports in Costa Rica, due to a delay in refuelling the ship.  We spent most of the night being ‘topped up’ in Panama, before enjoying a glorious, calm (yes, CALM!) day at sea whilst making our way to Punto Arenas in Costa Rica.

Costa Rica

Costa Rica stretches north from Panama and has both Atlantic and Pacific coasts.  With a population of approx. 5 million, its main industries are agriculture and tourism.  Rice, coffee, and bananas are exported around the world.  And believe it or not, there is a huge export market in house plants!  The continual warm climate, and (normally) high rainfall makes this a plant paradise. 

We enjoyed a two-hour journey up into the mountains to visit the cloud forest.  The effect of El Nino was noticeable – nothing was a deep lush green, the whole countryside was ‘off green’ or even brown. 

The forest is home to many species of animal and bird – we were lucky enough to see some birds which are fed deliberately to show the tourists what they look like!  We saw nothing whilst doing a fairly extensive walk but could hear them. 

As always, our guide gave us a fantastic insight into the history and culture of the country.  Costa Rica is a definite for a future winter holiday – there’s lots more we’d like to see. 

Sadly Punta Arenas itself is quite shabby, although the beach is lovely.  We were thrilled to be able to use our Spanish in the bank, the post office and a café, as we meandered our way back to the ship.

Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

Three more days at sea took us north passing Nicaragua, El Salvador and Guatemala before berthing (at 7am) at Puerto Vallarta, which you’ll find on your maps is north-west of Mexico City.  We were lucky to be the only cruise liner moored for our brief visit, although we were sharing with both a rather swish gin-palace/floating hotel and an ancient pirate ship!

 Puerto Vallarta is said to be the most luxurious vacation spot in North America. – if you were American, you would probably amplify that to ‘the world’!  It’s a fusion of Mexican culture with modern-day resort living – humble dwellings to millionaire’s mansions.  Many rich and famous make this their second home  – indeed, allow me to relate a story our guide regaled us with.  Richard Burton had a house here, and Elizabeth Taylor lost no time in coming to join him (she needed to keep an eye on him!).  The Catholic priest got to hear of this, and pointed out to them, that this was a Catholic country and people did not live together ‘out of wedlock’.  Richard Burton managed to buy the plot of land on the opposite side of the road to his, and built a house for Liz to live in.  Shortly after the building was completed, a bridge was built across the road, joining the two houses. . . .  Well, it makes a good story!

We were lucky enough to visit the Botanical Gardens.  After an hour’s drive up into the mountains that run along behind the coastline, we arrived at this little paradise.  Lots of colourful plants and shrubs, and lots of birdlife.

 

We were given a brief history of the area by our local guide during our journey, but were then free to wonder on our own within the gardens  – all the plants were well labelled in Spanish and English.  The majority of the patrons of the Gardens are American – as mentioned, it is one of their favourite holiday destinations. There was a wonderful Peace Garden which surrounded a small, quiet chapel.  Enjoying the calm of this area was a real ‘pinch me’ moment  . . was I really in the mountains off the west coast of Mexico?

Our planned Mexican port had been Acapulco, but that was changed following the hurricane last November.  Hurricane damage was evident on our way up the mountain, although presumably not as severe as in Acapulco.  Landslips, trees snapped in half, and huge boulders washed high up on river banks.  Evidence of hurricane damage was still noticeable on some on the roofs in the garden. 

Annoyingly/frustratingly we had to be back onboard immediately after our trip to the gardens.  It was a VERY short visit – we sailed again at 2pm, so there was no time to have a little explore of the old town or the shops.  Those who hadn’t booked a shore tour had enjoyed the shops, but were aggravated (like us) that there wasn’t time to do both.  This is one of the main irritations with cruising  – will this put us off in the future?  Only time will tell. . .