Author: malyoga

Sydney:

Most of us were up at dawn to witness us passing under Sydney Harbour Bridge with just over a metre to spare!  First light made for some good photographic opportunities! 

We are lucky enough to have seen most of the famous Sydney sites on a previous visit. Hence, we were more than thrilled to meet up with some good friends who had flown down from Brisbane and picked us up from the ship in a hire car.  We spent two glorious days with them exploring places that none of us had been to before.  A good walk along the coast afforded wonderful views of the rocky shores between lovely sandy beaches.

The Royal Botanical Gardens are a delight – with lovely views across to the city and its iconic landmarks.  Despite autumn being around the corner (remember, we are in the Southern Hemisphere) there was plenty of colour.

Day 2 was spent on Manley, a suburb of Sydney, easily reached via a 15 minute ferry ride.  Manley boasts miles of white sandy beaches along with a much more relaxed atmosphere than the city centre.  Catching up with our goddaughter who lives on Manley was the icing on the cake! 

Evening meals were spent revelling in the ambiance of Darling Harbour as we sampled both an Italian restaurant and an Angus Steakhouse whilst continuing  to’ yarn’ with our friends.  As with Charleston, visiting a place with citizens of the country creates a different perspective for us tourists! Thank you P & L . . . .

A blip on the ship:  As we left Sydney, we were awoken by a ‘pipe’ at 11:10pm.  All the electrics had failed – many passengers were still up and plunged into darkness in public toilets or the theatre.  A while later a further ‘pipe’ informed us that the anchor had been dropped, as the ship had ‘lost propulsion’.  We were just outside the Sydney Harbour entrance.  I spent most of that night, sitting on the balcony in the balmy air, unable to think of anything else but ‘what would happen if we were in the middle of the Pacific and the ship had this sort of failure?’ Needless to say, “sailor-boy” husband slept through the lot!  We have never been told what the problem was  (lots of surmising that it was a rather large fuse that blew!) , but the four hour delay meant we were late into our next port.  Well, we’ve got used to that!

Newcastle:

Most of the tours in Newcastle were cancelled due to our late arrival.  However, the local agents managed to set up a last minute ‘scenic tour’ of the city.  Newcastle is the largest exporter of coal in the world – we were moored in the industrial port. 

We counted six colliers lined up out at sea, waiting to come in to be loaded with coal.  The city itself is a university city and has been renovated and brought ‘up market’ in recent years.  However, its miles of white sandy beaches are what makes it such a haven.  Regrettably Newcastle registered a very hot & humid 36C that day!  (a record for Newcastle we were told)  A small group of us braved the heat to walk the Anzac walk – a cleverly built raised walkway over the rocky cliffs with  breath taking views of the city and out to sea. 

Visits to the Cathedral and to one of the Forts were necessarily brief as we all found the heat totally debilitating. We were delighted to get back to our airconditioned ship!

Cairns:  It took two full days sailing to reach Cairns from Newcastle.  I had no idea that Oz was such an enormous country!  The tropical weather stayed with us.  But . . . . . Cairns was very high on our list of expectations and did not disappoint.  A prebooked private tour to the Great Barrier Reef will be talked about for many years to come . . . . .

We were flown by helicopter (just the two of us) out to the far reaches of the reef.  We passed some superb mountainous countryside near Cairns before making our way out to the turquoise waters the reef area and the realization of just how big this reef is. 

As one of the Seven Wonders of the World, it stretches for some 1800 miles and is made up of 100’s of tiny coral islands which support a huge diversity of marine life. 

We landed on a tiny raft in the middle of nowhere and were quickly transferred to a floating platform.  An inspirational and very knowledgeable guide took us snorkelling along the reef.  We were blown away by the beauty of the coral.   Masses of different shapes and sizes – hard coral which doesn’t move, and soft coral which oscillates with the movement of the sea.

 

And so many colours – from deep golden, to blue to pinks, to browns.  And of course, the multitude of different fish of varied shapes and sizes.  Yes, we could see the effects of climate change – small areas of coral were destroyed by the 2011 typhoon that swept through the area  – however we were thrilled to witness the restoration project whereby scientists are sinking metal rods into the reef onto which they attach a piece of live coral.  Within three years, the coral has multiplied significantly. 

Several times I had to surface and spit out sea water, having tried to shout WOW through my snorkel!  My only regret was that I hadn’t thought about getting a waterproof camera to take some photos.  These photos were all taken from a glass bottomed boat or a submersible boat – both of which were part of our amazing day. 

Our return journey was by catamaran and included a demonstration of the digeridoo by some of the aboriginal crew.   

A day to remember!  

And on we go . . . .next stop Papua New Guinea!

Crossing the IDL:

The voyage between Polynesia and New Zealand involved crossing the International Dateline.  I’m happy to report that there were no ‘line-crossing ceremonies’ involving King Neptune, however we did receive a fake Daily Times.  This included a lecture on Modern Writing by Mark Twain and a talk on Modern Physics by Albert Einstein!  We were also promised a ‘Meeting with the Ship’s Cow’  – Sir Mooselot – when we would learn how much milk was actually consumed onboard!  The ship’s entertainment team must have had some negative feedback from customers as they were offering an award-winning show by none other than Elton John!!  

A copy of the Daily Times is always waiting for us on our pillow when we get back to our cabins at night.  In our sleepy and (for some) alcoholic state it would have been easy to get taken in by the ship’s humour . . . . until you read the title – THE DAY THAT NEVER HAPPENED! Crossing the IDL from east to west meant we lost 24 hours  – the 16^th of February did not happen for us! 

Auckland:

New Zealand has always been on our ‘bucket list’ and our brief visit to this fabulous country has only wetted our appetite  – next year’s holiday is already being planned! 

We enjoyed two days in Auckland on the North Island – what a lovely city.  We used the Hop On-Hop Off bus which gave us a good feel for our surroundings.  The Māori section of the museum gave us a good insight into New Zealand’s history – their wood carvings are exquisite  – elaborate and intricate designs bedecked their boats and houses.  The more ostentatious patterns appeared on the chief’s houses. 

The Aquarium had been highly recommended to us, and we were not disappointed.  Designed by Kelly Tarlton, we were treated to an enormous King and Gentoo Penguin colony, as well as the inspirational Shark Tunnel, where sharks and stingrays swam past and over our heads – just wonderful to feel like we were swimming with nature. 

The SkyTower is a ‘must-do’ visit.  The weather was on our side  – phenomenal clear views in all directions from dizzying heights – the SkyTower can be seen from pretty well everywhere in the city.

We were lucky to spend day two on the North Shore and in Devonport.  A very informative guide gave us lots of history and took us to various points of interest.  Typical Devonport houses were built of Kauri wood – a very strong and durable native wood – with wrought iron roofs which were both cheap and fire-resistant.  This pretty community is full of shops and restaurants which kept us entertained for an afternoon before we took the regular and very efficient ferry back to the city centre.

We were very intrigued by ‘Bertie’ a cockatoo who lives in one of the houses, but flies daily to a specific tree overlooking the beach and the road, (just to keep an eye on what’s going on) before returning home to bed at night!

Picton:

Picton is located in a small inlet on the north end of the South Island.  We moored for a day next to a timber yard.  Local Radiata Pine and Douglas Fir are exported from here, along with huge amounts of wood chip which is shipped to Japan. 

Picton itself is a pretty little town, set in some spectacular highlands– when a cruise ship arrives the population is doubled for the day! 

We were thrilled to spend a few hours kayaking in Queen Charlotte sound.  After a hair-raising journey up and over the mountain, we arrived at a small beach where a friendly guide was waiting for us.  Beautiful sunshine and NO WIND made our kayaking very easy.  Just three couples enjoyed the sheer peace of the water.  Whilst paddling across and around the bay, the guide chatted away giving us more history of the area and pointing out any wildlife.  I can’t tell you how pleasurable it was to get away from 900 people for a few hours!!

Milford Sound: 

From Picton, we voyaged down the west side of the South Island to an area known as Fiordland.  Sadly, the weather had changed during our journey and we were once again doing the ‘rock ‘n roll’ in rough seas.  The plan to cruise through three different fiords was aborted due to 65 mph winds and driving rain with visibility down to less than a mile!  Dusky Sound and Doubtful Sound were both ‘non starters’ as it was too dangerous and difficult to enter.  By this time it was early afternoon, and we were all very downhearted, not to mention fed-up with being tossed about!  Was the weather ever going to be on our side?

Third time lucky! Much to our amazement, the entrance to Milford Sound appeared out of the gloom.  As we slowly made our way through the entrance, the clouds began to lift.  124 ml of rain had fallen in the previous 24 hours!!  Hence, all the waterfalls were in full flow, and as the sun began to break through, stunning rainbows emerged.  An unbelievable and totally unexpected ending to the day!

The sea has settled for now, as we make our way to Australia. . . .

We were lulled into a false sense of security in the Hawaiian islands – as soon as we were through the breakwater the rough seas hit us once again!  Activities continued onboard for our four-day voyage to French Polynesia.  The Borealis Bark continues to spread around the ship – the constant moving from air-conditioning to hot, humid weather gives our lungs a hard time  – Barking coughs have become the norm! 

Raiatae

Such was our excitement with the thought of visiting such a far-flung place as French Polynesia, that we raced up to the Observatory lounge straight after lunch to get a front row seat, to witness our entry through the narrow gap in the coral reef that surrounds Raiatea Island.  Sadly, it was not to be!  Having already been informed that all ships tours were cancelled in Raiatea due to heavy overnight storm damage, the weather closed in again.  Visibility was down to less than a mile,  50 mph winds were blowing and torrential rain was falling.  Apparently, the pilot had a major challenge to get onboard, and he then stayed with us for two days – it was considered too dangerous for him to disembark.  Our visit to Raiatea was cancelled totally, and we moved on (or should I say ‘rocked on’) to Tahiti. 

Papeete

Arriving in the early morning, we could see the cloud was right down over the mountains.  Immigration here was very easy – we’d handed our passports in and everything was ‘seen to’ onboard without further input from us.  Papeete is the capital of French Polynesia – I should point out here that Tahiti and French Polynesia are the same thing – made up of 118 small islands, many of which are uninhabited.  Population approximately 350,000. 

The ship moored conveniently in the middle of the city – an easy walk to shops and more importantly a HUGE indoor market, selling EVERYTHING.  Regrettably quite a few of the stall holders didn’t arrive to open their stalls, as (Again!) there had been a lot of overnight storm damage, and (Again!) all our tours were cancelled due to flooded roads and fallen trees.  So . . . we just HAD to shop!  Oh!  And eat!  We were recommended the local dish – a salad of raw tuna, tomatoes & cucumber with a dressing of coconut milk and lime juice. Served with rice – delicious!

The Tiare flower is Tahiti’s symbol of harmony.  It is worn daily by Tahitians and they give them out to visitors  – men & women!

 In true ‘rainy season’ style, the heavens opened for the afternoon.  Roads became rivers and pavements muddy skating rinks. . . .We sailed during the evening, hoping for better things tomorrow . . . . . . . .

Bora Bora

We were awoken not by a beautiful sunrise, but by the sound of the lifeboats being lowered!  These were to be our ‘little ferries’ for the day – Bora Bora’s little jetty area is not deep enough for cruise ships so we had to be ‘tendered’ ashore.  True to form, the Bora Bora government had decreed that there were to be no island tours or visits due (Again!) overnight storm damage.  Yes, you guessed it, the cloud was down over the mountains and everywhere was a muddy mess! 

Not to be discouraged ,we were on the first tender of the day at 07:30 and headed for the only café open for breakfast  – pancakes with maple syrup – well it was Shrove Tuesday!!  We then walked along the local road – no pavements here – local rustic houses sitting in a sea of mud – piles of palm tree fronds having been blown down in the wind – we happened upon a local art gallery just opening its doors.  Every shop or business has someone who speaks English – French being their everyday language.  Having admired the art (but not bought any!) we asked the lady how to get to the beach  – could we walk?  No, she told us – the easiest way from here is to hitch-hike!  She assured us it was safe to do so.  Within minutes, a taxi driver stopped – $5 for the 12 mile journey to the beach. 

We were on the beach by 09:30  – the sun never came out but it was 29C and we both got sunburnt!  Glorious turquoise water and so warm.  Rays (as in Stingrays) swam along very close to shore and seemed very friendly. 

As idyllic as it was, we knew that the rains were due to come in again at midday, hence we asked the taxi to come back for us 2hours later. We were back onboard Borealis and eating lunch as the rain started. 

The tenders worked very hard in the choppy harbour swell as the winds got up.  The result was that everyone was onboard promptly, and we were able to ‘up- anchor’ and sail away a little early (one happy Captain!)

Now heading for New Zealand.. . . . . .

Change in Itinerary

My last entry mentioned that we were all waiting with bated breath to hear the changes in our itinerary due to the problems in the Red Sea/Suez Canal area. 

From Phuket in Thailand, we will head south-west across the Indian Ocean to Mauritius, then to Durban, Cape Town, Namibia, Cape Verde Islands, and Tenerife before arriving back in Southampton on the planned day (17^th April)

I’ll take that, thanks!!

Crossing the Pacific from Mexico to Hawaii was almost a joy!  Calm seas and warm weather encouraged lots of reading in the sun on the balcony. . . However, rough seas returned on day 4 of our 5 day voyage, which meant that we were 6 hrs late arriving in Honolulu.  Our Captain must have heard his passengers getting crabby, as he managed to extend our visit to Honolulu by 24 hrs but it meant that we would not be doing our planned stop to the island of Hilo.  I’m sure you’ll all be assuming (as we are) that we will no longer going through the Suez Canal and Red Sea in April  – This has become a ‘voyage of surprises’ as we await the next change to the itinerary!

Honolulu

What a pleasure it was to feel solid earth under our feet as we arrived in Honolulu.  A very modern city with lots of skyscrapers towering over beautiful white sandy beaches.  Streets are all immaculately clean, with plentiful lush greenery, and colourful shrubs. We appreciated an afternoon of walking and doing a bit of shopping. The city is a major hub for business, finance, hospitality and military defense not only for all the islands of Hawaii but for the whole of Oceania. Two thirds of the total population of the islands live in or near Honolulu – which is on the island of Oahu, meaning ‘gathering place’. 

Discovered by the Polynesians and the Portuguese, but now an American State, the country is very diverse with a huge mixture of cultures.  The locals are very friendly and welcoming.  Our evening’s entertainment in Honolulu was some local Hawaiian schoolgirls showing us the cultural dances. 

Peter enjoyed a self-guided tour of Pearl Harbour taking his time to see and do what he wished.  Meanwhile, I joined a small group of fairly fit cruisers (there are many who are NOT!) to walk the steep path and 170 steps to the top of a Le’ahi Volcanic Crater.  Known locally as the Diamond Head  (original settlers believed there were diamonds up there) – the summit (762 ft above sea level)  affords breath-taking views of the city below and the mountains behind.  The Trade Winds were blowing, but it was a pleasant 24C.  Sadly, we were not the only people up there!

We could NOT visit Honolulu without experiencing Waikiki beach – known worldwide for its turquoise waters, white sands and surfing of all kinds, it lived up to its name! 

Maui

Sadly we were unable to moor at Lahaina due to the devastating fire that obliterated the area 6 months ago.  Instead, we docked at Kahului a busy deep-draft port.  A small group of us – again, the fitter ones! – revelled in an hour’s tour of the north-west of the island of Maui.  We were delighted to see several whales in Maui Bay – they arrive here every year, all the way from Alaska, to give birth – the sheltered bay makes a good ‘nursery’.  Passing through Lahaina was a very emotional experience, as we could see the remains of the 3000 houses destroyed and noted all the toxic debris still to be cleared before rebuilding can begin.  Hurricane strength winds on the day of the fire, blew down power lines which ignited the dry undergrowth.  Thousands of people are still being housed elsewhere.  Our driver/guide was from the area; hence his re-counting of the inferno was extremely poignant. 

Having driven part way up the mountain past some very celebrious houses and the PGA Tour Plantation Golf Course (wowsers!), we enjoyed a good walk through a Rain Forest up to the Pu’u Kukui Watershed.  The name is Hawaiian for ‘Hill of Enlightenment’, a very sacred place for the locals.  Average rainfall up here is 325 inches a year, though much of this precious water never reaches the inhabited lowlands thanks to run-off and erosion.

 

Battling both high winds (those Trade Winds again) and a rocky path, we learned about the ongoing conservation project aimed at preserving the native species of Hawaii.  Again, we were blessed with a highly competent and engaging local guide, who was passionate about his environment and his country of birth. 

Hawaii is now on our list of ‘return to visit properly’ places – much more to discover and enjoy on these beautiful islands! 

We sailed from Maui at 4pm and encountered rough seas within an hour of heading south!  A force 8 gale is now blowing, a 4-metre swell is rocking us about (and has closed the gym, swimming pool and walking deck) and we’ve just been advised that there is a hurricane warning for French Polynesia where we’re headed next! 

More anon, when we’ve weathered the storm . . . . .

Rough Seas

More rough seas accompanied us as we made our way south through the Gulf of Mexico, through the Yucatan Channel and into the Caribbean.  In our imaginations, the Caribbean is a beautiful, blue calm sea – not when winter storms are swirling through in January!

Panama Canal

What a joy it was to finally arrive at the entrance to the Panama Canal on a calm and peaceful early morning.

Rightly referred to as one of the Modern Wonders of the World, this 51-mile canal connects the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans thereby reducing, by some 8000 nautical miles, the journey time for maritime shipping. The French began the construction in 1881 but later abandoned the project.  In 1904 the Americans took on the task, completing and opening it in 1914.  In the late 1990’s Panama assumed the management and operation of the Canal.    Over the many decades of the build approximately 25000 men died.  Yellow fever and malaria were the biggest killers plus terrible working conditions led to many work-based accidents.

This feat of engineering includes three locks rising 85 feet from the Atlantic – the Gatun Locks – which lead into Gatun Lake.  The lake was created by damming a nearby river and a smaller lake.  A further three locks – the Pedro Miguel and a pair known as Miraflores – drop back down to the Pacific Ocean.

In 2016 a further wider lane of locks was added allowing the transit of the very biggest vessels.  Normally 40 ships pass through the canal every 24 hours.  At the moment, due to the drought caused by El Nino, only 22 ships are permitted to pass through.  It is hard to imagine the eye-watering amount of toll fees that ships pay to pass through  – We were told that Borealis would pay about US$200,000!

Our transit made for a fascinating day.  An onboard expert, having already delivered three lectures during the previous sea days, then gave us an up-to-the-minute commentary from the bridge throughout the day. This was broadcast to all outside areas – so that those who wanted a quiet day (or knew it all before!) were not bothered by the tannoy. Bear in mind that we were now in the Tropics – it was 30C and VERY humid.  Spells on the outside decks got shorter as the day wore on – we all needed to acclimatize!   

The day finished with a disappointing announcement from the Captain, informing us that we would only be visiting one of the two planned ports in Costa Rica, due to a delay in refuelling the ship.  We spent most of the night being ‘topped up’ in Panama, before enjoying a glorious, calm (yes, CALM!) day at sea whilst making our way to Punto Arenas in Costa Rica.

Costa Rica

Costa Rica stretches north from Panama and has both Atlantic and Pacific coasts.  With a population of approx. 5 million, its main industries are agriculture and tourism.  Rice, coffee, and bananas are exported around the world.  And believe it or not, there is a huge export market in house plants!  The continual warm climate, and (normally) high rainfall makes this a plant paradise. 

We enjoyed a two-hour journey up into the mountains to visit the cloud forest.  The effect of El Nino was noticeable – nothing was a deep lush green, the whole countryside was ‘off green’ or even brown. 

The forest is home to many species of animal and bird – we were lucky enough to see some birds which are fed deliberately to show the tourists what they look like!  We saw nothing whilst doing a fairly extensive walk but could hear them. 

As always, our guide gave us a fantastic insight into the history and culture of the country.  Costa Rica is a definite for a future winter holiday – there’s lots more we’d like to see. 

Sadly Punta Arenas itself is quite shabby, although the beach is lovely.  We were thrilled to be able to use our Spanish in the bank, the post office and a café, as we meandered our way back to the ship.

Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

Three more days at sea took us north passing Nicaragua, El Salvador and Guatemala before berthing (at 7am) at Puerto Vallarta, which you’ll find on your maps is north-west of Mexico City.  We were lucky to be the only cruise liner moored for our brief visit, although we were sharing with both a rather swish gin-palace/floating hotel and an ancient pirate ship!

 Puerto Vallarta is said to be the most luxurious vacation spot in North America. – if you were American, you would probably amplify that to ‘the world’!  It’s a fusion of Mexican culture with modern-day resort living – humble dwellings to millionaire’s mansions.  Many rich and famous make this their second home  – indeed, allow me to relate a story our guide regaled us with.  Richard Burton had a house here, and Elizabeth Taylor lost no time in coming to join him (she needed to keep an eye on him!).  The Catholic priest got to hear of this, and pointed out to them, that this was a Catholic country and people did not live together ‘out of wedlock’.  Richard Burton managed to buy the plot of land on the opposite side of the road to his, and built a house for Liz to live in.  Shortly after the building was completed, a bridge was built across the road, joining the two houses. . . .  Well, it makes a good story!

We were lucky enough to visit the Botanical Gardens.  After an hour’s drive up into the mountains that run along behind the coastline, we arrived at this little paradise.  Lots of colourful plants and shrubs, and lots of birdlife.

 

We were given a brief history of the area by our local guide during our journey, but were then free to wonder on our own within the gardens  – all the plants were well labelled in Spanish and English.  The majority of the patrons of the Gardens are American – as mentioned, it is one of their favourite holiday destinations. There was a wonderful Peace Garden which surrounded a small, quiet chapel.  Enjoying the calm of this area was a real ‘pinch me’ moment  . . was I really in the mountains off the west coast of Mexico?

Our planned Mexican port had been Acapulco, but that was changed following the hurricane last November.  Hurricane damage was evident on our way up the mountain, although presumably not as severe as in Acapulco.  Landslips, trees snapped in half, and huge boulders washed high up on river banks.  Evidence of hurricane damage was still noticeable on some on the roofs in the garden. 

Annoyingly/frustratingly we had to be back onboard immediately after our trip to the gardens.  It was a VERY short visit – we sailed again at 2pm, so there was no time to have a little explore of the old town or the shops.  Those who hadn’t booked a shore tour had enjoyed the shops, but were aggravated (like us) that there wasn’t time to do both.  This is one of the main irritations with cruising  – will this put us off in the future?  Only time will tell. . .

Port Canaveral

We will remember Port Canaveral as the ‘lucky’ port – at least, it certainly was for us!  We took a boat trip through the mangroves along Cocoa Beach hoping to see some wildlife.  Our very knowledgeable guide pointed out several different types of cormorants, herons and ospreys along with the multi-million-dollar houses along the opposite shore.  A manatee came close enough to the surface for a photo!  But the highlight (for the boat’s captain and guide as well as us!) was coming upon a ‘feeding frenzy’.  A shoal of fish must have gathered in one particular area . . . . .pelicans from all sides descended, and began ‘dive-bombing’ the fish!  Several pods of dolphins got in on the act, nipping round in circles, surfacing for just long enough to draw air and then giving us a real show of acrobatics as they dove in all directions for the fish.  Sorry! No photos of all this – it was one of those moments to savour, without trying to snap a photo at the same time!

But our luck was doubled on our return to the ship.  A rocket launch, delayed from the previous day, was due to take place shortly.  You can imagine the excitement as people gathered on every possible outside space of the ship.  Borealis was conveniently moored facing towards the Kennedy Space Centre.  With fingers firmly crossed, we held our breath and were rewarded with the flash and up it soared.  Space X Falcon 9 has four Europeans on board, on their way to the International Space Station.  Five minutes later the booster returned, and we glimpsed the blaze of flame as it landed just out of our sight.  And then the Sonic Boom!  Luckily, we had been warned to expect it, as it shook the ship!!  Incredible experience. 

Fort Lauderdale

We were sharing the port with three other enormous cruise ships, so any ideas of a ‘quick shifty’ into town to the local mall were put on the back burner!  However, we enjoyed a journey out to the Everglades where we were treated to an airboat ride. Powered by enormous motors which propel two big fans, there are no operating parts below the waterline.  An exhilarating 35 mph ride took us to different areas where we then quietly looked for wildlife.  Amazingly the wildlife seems to be quite used to the noise!

This preserved wetland stretches for 1.5 million acres across the southern tip of Florida.  Very slow-moving fresh water makes its way through estuaries to the salt water of the ocean.  Crocodiles live in the salt water near the coast whilst alligators prefer the fresh water.  Sadly, it was a cool day with no sun (again!) – alligators like to bask in the sunshine, but otherwise tend to keep themselves warm underwater.  However, one graced us with his presence by showing just his eyes above the water – apologies for the bad photo, but at least I proved we saw one! 

We also spotted plenty of bird life – vultures, osprey, cormorants, and the little purple gallinule.  The yellow flowered Spatterdock serves as a floating perch for the gallinule, but also makes good cover for an alligator’s head – hence the locals call it Gator Bonnet! 

Key West

Sunny blue skies greeted us in Key West – hurray! One of the many islands that make up the archipelago (known as the Florida Keys) on the southern tip of Florida, Key West is a winter haunt for many North Americans who flock down from the cold northern states for a bit of sunshine and warmth.  Known as Snowbirds, they double or triple the local population and boost Florida’s economy substantially.  Borealis was able to moor within five minutes’ walk of the centre.  We were greeted with a plethora of restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops, beach shops, clothes shops, museums, and churches.  The streets were awash with tourist trains, open sided tour buses, golf carts, and bicycles all tussling for a space amongst the enormous American pick up trucks.  Live music lambasted us from popular local cafes, whilst commentary from tour buses slated us from the streets. 

Quieter side streets were just as full of people happily sauntering along enjoying the atmosphere.  Houses here are mostly timber framed, but all with regulation tin roofs, as there is such a huge fire risk.  Palm trees and lots of greenery protect the houses from the fierce summer sunshine. 

 

On two occasions we were asked where the ship had come from. . .”Geez! You’ve come all the way from England? No kiddin’!  How long did that take you? Wow!”  Just to rub it in, we mentioned that we were continuing Around the World . . .”No Way!! All the way around?  Where are you visiting?  How long is it taking?  Geez, you guys are lucky! Oh Wow!”

Just about sums it up really – but I must admit, we’d had enough after a few hours.  Oh, to be 30 years younger!

And so, we sail on . . .two days at sea now until we reach the Panama Canal. 

Bermuda

Approaching our first port of call after 7 days sailing certainly created an electric atmosphere on the ship  – despite Bermuda being covered in low cloud! We were mega-impressed by the efficient and speedy method of getting us off the ship and into the correct tour bus – Bermuda immigration rituals are very low key  (we expect it to be VERY different when we enter USA for the first time!) Tiny, windy roads circumnavigate 22 inhabited islands of the 170 that make up Bermuda.  A population of 65,000 make up these tiny islands which lie 600 miles from mainland USA.  Life here is very expensive as everything needs to be flown/shipped in.  The many famous people who own impressive residences here are not deterred however – our guide assured us that ‘they just come here to chill!’ Lush green hillsides are dotted with colourful houses – Bermudans are permitted to paint their houses in ANY colour, but roofs must be white and are all constructed of ridged concrete.  The ridges collect rainwater which is then fed into underground water storage tanks – the only source of fresh water on the island.  There are no high-rise buildings – everything is built to withstand the frequent hurricanes that plague the islands.

The tour highlight was a visit to the awe-inspiring natural grotto of stalactites and stalagmites which make up the Crystal Caves.  Discovered by two young boys looking for a lost ball in 1907, we were blown away by the sheer beauty of nature – each stalactite begins with one drip of water and takes 100 years to grow 1 cubic centimetre! Stunning reflections glistened from the clear brackish water.  The water is tidal, fed from the sea but made brackish (a mixture of fresh and salt water) by the rain-fed limestone from above.  

A fascinating glimpse into life on the islands –  ‘Glimpse’ being the operative word – the ship was moored for just 5 hours! 

And we’re off to our next port of call . . . . .

Charleston

Despite being warned about possible delays through American immigration, there was still much chuntering to be heard, as many of us queued for an hour and a half before even entering the terminal building where immigration and security were taking place! 

Long delays did nothing to dampen the spirits of our American friends Bill & Cleo who were waiting patiently to sweep us into downtown Charleston – how lucky we were to have ‘local guides’.  Coffee in one of the multitude of cafes in this food paradise meant we could begin to exchange 15 years of news, before we set off on a self-guided tour of this historical city.  Cobbled streets and horse-drawn carriages add to the old-world atmosphere.  Pineapples are seen everywhere and are a symbol of hospitality. 

Founded in 1670, this area is renowned as the site of the first battles in the Civil War.  Lying at only 6 metres above sea level,  many houses  have a raised front door with stairs approaching it from either side – everything below the front door level (the wine cellar!) is built to survive flooding.  But it was the ‘single houses’ that we will remember Charleston for.  Very narrow lots inspired the design whereby the front door is actually to the side of the property underneath a balcony or two (known as piazzas).  The front door leads into a hall from which you reach a single room to each side. These rooms are literally the width of the house – just the two rooms to each floor.  The icing on the cake is the fake front door that faces the street, and provides privacy for the outdoor area under the piazzas. 

We were treated to a little trip out of town this morning  – the temperature here was only 7C!! but brilliant blue sky and sunshine. We visited the Boone Hall Plantation which was set up by an Englishman – John Boone in 1681 with 100 acres of land.   Just to make sure you know what I’m talking about  . . . a plantation was an estate or farm that produced a single market crop with the forced labour of enslaved people.     We learnt that various owners used the knowledge, skills and labour of enslaved people to produce crops, make bricks, serve the family and carry out the many tasks necessary to run such a huge affair.  Rice, cotton and indigo along with enforced  African slave labour are said to have made this area home to some of the richest families in the American Colonies.  It was an eye opening experience but we were comforted by the fact that slavery was abolished after the American Civil War. 

The camelias were in bloom in the extensive gardens and driving along the Live Oak Tunnel, as seen in so many movies, was a joy.  These Live Oaks are named as such because they are never without leaf.  They lose their leaves as the new ones form.  The swathes of Spanish Moss create a dramatic atmosphere. 

Huge thanks must go to our lovely friends Bill & Cleo – there’s nothing so special as being shown around by local experts! 

And so we sail on . . . . . .

The seasoned cruisers amongst you will have to skip this bit – it’ll be all old hat to you. 

We joined Borealis in Southampton on 7^th January 2024, and many thanks to our elder daughter Sarah for offering to taxi us there – what a treat to have some ‘daughter’ time at the beginning of our exciting trip.  Within an hour, we were finding our way around our ‘home’ for the next three months.  We are delighted with our very comfortable cabin – and yes, we’ve found a place for everything!

Six full days at sea have allowed us to get into the swing of life onboard.  There are SO many activities offered, that one simply cannot get to them all – there are clashes (just like the u3a!), so priorities must be chosen.  Activities in the fitness area have been curtailed for the last two days – so no yoga, and no gym sessions.  Even the walking deck was closed yesterday.  It IS January and we ARE crossed the North Atlantic, so high seas are to be expected. Despite my worries about my past record with sea sickness, I’ve only succumbed on one afternoon, but I’m happy to say that an Echinacea tablet (of all things) has sorted the problem.  (take note anyone who suffers) Meanwhile, everyone staggers around as if drunk (and some probably are!) 

We thoroughly enjoy the many lectures that are offered – from history to wildlife, it’s all covered.  There is a daily cookery demonstration by one of the 96 (yes 96!) chefs onboard (we’ve learnt to skip breakfast if attending the cookery demo, as you’re handed a plate full of whatever has been cooked to sample at the end.) Morning coffee is always a joy in one of the many lounges onboard – one of the many chances to get chatting to whoever is nearby.  A good walk around Deck 3 is a must  – three times around equals a mile – filling the lungs with sea air (and sometime a load of spray as well!) sets us up for the day. 

**

We’ve both taken great pleasure in joining the Borealis choir.  Yes, even yours truly has found a voice – the choir leader is great fun, and the 80 of us have a good laugh.  We meet daily, and during rough weather have had to sit down.  Trying to sing through one song today standing up, the ship rolled suddenly and quite a few of us were thrown back into our seats! We hope to perform four concerts as we circumnavigate the globe.

 The food is every bit as good as everyone has promised us – the crew just couldn’t be more cheerful and helpful.  8 months on and 3 months off, working every day – and they never lose their smile!

And finally the evening entertainment – FANTASTIC. Borealis has its own theatrical dancing group who are very professional.  This week we’ve had a really good Soul group singing the songs that we all know – all this despite the stage, screen and curtains being thrown around by the sea swell!  The ship’s pantomime was hilarious complete with one of the entertainment managers performing as Widow Twanky in Aladdin.  6 inch chunky heels on a stage that was tipping from one side to the other was no mean feat!

We’re just about to berth in Bermuda - watch this space.

Those of you with a beady eye may have noticed that I’ve stated below that we are heading east - Oh no we’re not! We are heading WEST! 

WordPress have made a few changes since I last used this site for my blog - I only write blogs if we’re going on a long holiday! Hence I have changed my domain name - mollysfolks.uk is what to tell anyone interested in following our travels. Until next time.

We will shortly be setting off on a Holiday of a Lifetime.  Having read of the recent anniversary (1873) of Jules Verne’s famous novel ‘Around the World in 80 Days’, we discussed what fun it would be to follow such a route.  To our delight, we discovered that Fred Olsen was offering a Round the World Cruise, setting off in early Jan 2024 and taking 101 days to circumnavigate the world.  Given that 50^th wedding anniversaries fall once in a lifetime, and we’ve decided to spend the kid’s inheritance (I’m told this is SKI – ing!) and fulfil our dream. 

A holiday blog is a must for me, as it’s the only way I shall ever remember where I’ve been (the memory cogs are getting a little rusty these days!) – so please join us on our journey.  Postings are bound to be intermittent, not least because we will be jolly busy enjoying all the activities that the ship offers – both onboard and ashore! 

Our ship is the Borealis – if you’d like to have an early ‘nosey’ at what we’ve let ourselves in for, google it.    We board in Southampton and head east – the itinerary is very exciting so I will keep that part as a surprise!  In the meantime dear reader, you should know that we have NEVER been on a cruise before, and I do NOT ‘sail’ well!  However, we are assured by absolutely everyone that we will LOVE cruising and my darling ex-marine husband promises that I will quickly find my ‘sea legs’  – here goes . . . . . . . . . .