Dingle Peninsula to the Cliffs of Moher

Several of you loyal followers have mentioned that we must NOT miss the Dingle Peninsula.  We were not disappointed!  Wild and windy, with buffeting seas – we drove all the way to the point, including the Slea Head Drive, which was even narrower than usual!!  But it led us to idyllic beaches and little hamlets.  The winds were too strong to even consider a boat trip out to the Blasket Islands. 

The Blasket Islands were inhabited continuously from about the 17^th century until the final evacuation in 1953.  Around 180 people lived out there in the 1920’s, living a very hard life, with no electricity or running water.  Trips to the mainland for any supplies were always dependent on calm seas – which don’t happen very often!  The inhabitants spoke Irish, and several well-known scholars stayed on the islands for several months to learn the language.  The scholars encouraged the inhabitants to write about their life on the Blaskets.  Several books have been written which will ensure that the Blasket Island historical significance is not forgotten.  The Blasket Centre in Dunquin is absolutely fabulous (highly recommended for anyone heading in that direction) – as a member of English Heritage you get in free!  Very well interpreted, and gives lots of fascinating information about how life was on the Blaskets. 

You’ll be amused to hear that we got caught out in thinking that we could ‘get anywhere’ in Molly!  We set off to drive the Connor Pass which goes through the mountain range down the centre of the Dingle Peninsula.  This was going to be our short cut to our next campsite.  But we came a cropper – no signs at the beginning of the road to give maximum widths and heights  (we have come across these a lot!) – BUT ten minutes into the journey THERE was the sign!  In big yellow letters – maximum width 1.8 m (we are 2.3) – TURN AROUND HERE it said.  Of course, a narrow road in the middle of nowhere!  Luckily, my navigator, walked back and found a gateway.  I reversed (without running into the hedge) and managed to turn around – and we cursed as we drove all the way round the long way!  

We stayed in Castlegregory for a couple of nights, a) to have a rest from driving and b) to ride out a big storm. We were battered by wind and rain, even though we were on a site nestled behind the dunes of the Castlegregory beach.  Long, bracing walks along the beach were the order of the day. 

A quick visit to Tescos in Tralee enabled us to stock up the food cupboards once again.  Tescos always have huge carparks with room for motorhomes!  Heading north and following the coast all the way – passing Ballyheigue and Ballybunion (for those following us on the map) we caught a ferry from Tarbert to Killimer across the River Shannon, bringing us onto the Loop Head Peninsula.  It is clear that County Clare doesn’t look after it’s roads any better than any other county – and we think our roads are bad in UK!  Luckily, there are too many wonderful views to look at, so going fast is not an option. . .we made it to Loop Head Lighthouse but didn’t venture outside, due to heavy rain and strong winds – AGAIN! 

But the skies cleared for our visit to the Bridges of Ross – well, we HAD to go there didn’t we!  There used to be three sea arches here, but two of them collapsed in the 1800’s.  The remaining one is very dramatic, but almost impossible to get a good photo. 

The nearby Kilkee Cliffs are wonderfully rugged and lashed by waves – caves and sea stacks in abundance, plus a plethora of sea birds.  We were spoiled in that we were pretty much the only people on the road for the morning. 

Things changed in the afternoon, as we reached the Cliffs of Moher – these spectacular cliffs drop 214m into the sea and stretch for some 8km.  However, it has become a HUGE tourist destination – coach loads of people and car parks brim full – cliff walks, viewing platforms and a visitor centre.  Sadly, the sun wasn’t in quite the right position to snap the infamous cliffs at their best. 

Our campsite tonight, should really be called a Motorhome carpark!  Overbooked we think – electric cables spread everywhere – and all because the site is ten minutes drive from the Cliffs of Moher.  Hopefully, we’ll be back to quiet roads tomorrow as we continue north to Galway.