Journeying up the East Coast of South Island

Dunedin: Driving north-east along the Southern Scenic Coastal Route, the flat farmlands of the very south progressed to rolling hills with wonderful wide valleys.  Long straight roads took us past farmsteads hidden behind vibrant, thick hedges often on three sides of the property, acting as wind breaks.  Free standing hedges often stand erect in the middle of a field to provide shelter from the wind for the animals.  Wonderful views along the coastal cliffs and or beaches were interspersed with long bridges over wide river beds.

 

Our ‘boutique hotel’ in Dunedin was very central, allowing us to walk everywhere.  It was a shock to our senses to be in a busy city after the tranquillity of the mountains and Stewart Island.

 We were delighted to leave the city for a seven hour wildlife tour of the Otago Peninsula..  Our multi-talented mini-bus driver/guide took us all over the peninsula, giving us a full history and enchanting us with all the flora and fauna.  Huge varieties of birds enjoy this quiet peninsula and Rob swept us away with his incredible knowledge of every plant, animal and bird. We walked through sand dunes and down onto the beach at Allan Bay which is full of fur seals.  Several were lounging on the beach, but we gave them wide berth as they can get quite aggressive. 

Out on the furthest point of Otago Peninsula is a Southern Royal Albatross Colony.  Carefully monitored and protected by the Department of Conservation, these magnificent birds come in to breed every two years. The male and female (who mate for life) take turns sitting on the nest for up to a year.

They can fly, staying in the air, for 10 – 12 months covering 120,000 miles thanks to their huge wingspan allowing them to fly without using much energy.   They can even ‘lock’ their wings so that they can rest and sleep in the air. A visit to another beach had us watching the incoming tide at dusk to spot yellow eyed penguins coming in on the waves.  Sadly, we weren’t lucky, but we did spy several who were already in their little man-made shelters dug into the dunes.A marvellous Rehabilitation Centre was set up in the 90’s for sick, starving or injured penguins.  We saw yellow-eyed, blue, and crested penguins being gently improved and reoriented, ready to be released back into the wild. 

Oamaru: Continuing north and enjoying the winding coastal route with its lack of traffic and wonderful views, we arrived in Oamaru for the night.  This ‘whitestone city’, has several Victorian buildings which sit resplendent in the local white limestone.

Koekohe Beach was a good find, both for its excellent coffee and its gift shop.  However, a visit to the beach was more important to see the Moeraki Boulders –  these perfectly spherical boulders date back 60 million years.  No one knows yet, just how these boulders were formed – although there are plenty of theories!

Banks Peninsula:  This peninsula to the east of Christchurch is another little piece of paradise.  High hills and sweeping valleys with many a winding road along the way, lead to the village of Akaroa. 

We enjoyed a couple of nights in a farmhouse B&B nestled in a valley – beef and sheep are reared on this farm. Beautiful views over the hills along with splendid gardens just added to the effusive welcome from the hosts.

A two hour cruise took us out into the harbour to look for dolphins – we were not disappointed!  Even saw a couple with calfs  (known to Kiwis as rugbies, as they are about the size of rugby balls with fins!)

The fabulous weather continues . . . . see you soon!