The Stunning Southern Alps

Some of you have queried the 16 hr flight from Dubai to Sydney – it’s listed as being just under 15 hrs.  However, our departure was delayed, thanks to two passengers deciding that they were NOT flying, so their baggage had to be removed from the plane.  That meant we were late into Sydney and had to sit on the tarmac for 50 minutes waiting for a gate to be free!!  16 hrs in total!

Christchurch to Hokitika  – Our transfer from hotel to train station was made all the more pleasant with a very helpful and informative driver who accompanied us all the way to our carriage, having made sure our luggage was safely stowed.  This particular driver – a lady! – was a crystal geek, hence we got on very well! 

The Tranzalpine train travels west from coast to coast over 223 km, across the flat Canterbury plains, which are dotted with remote farmsteads before rising a little into the foothills of the Southern Alps.  Huge glacial river beds are crossed by many precipitous bridges.  Mind boggling to think that there has been a pass through these mountains since the 1800’s – the gold rush being the initial motivation, closely followed by coal and timber in the early 1900’s.   Arthur’s Pass is the highest settlement in NZ at 900m.  One of the world’s longest tunnels – Otira tunnel at 8.5 km in length – aids the slow descent through the forests and valleys towards Greymouth on the coast of the Tasman Sea.

We collected our nice, roomy car from the station, and headed south along the only coastal road (Route 6 for those of you following on a map!) . Lots of lush mixed forest kept us company, along with the pounding waves of the ocean.

The converted Fire Station in Hokitika where we stayed deserves a mention.  One of the best places we’ve EVER stayed, this ‘boutique apartment’ was beautifully designed  – a blend of contemporary and heritage – each room named after a fire chief.  Absolutely everything provided, making a very comfortable and enjoyable stay.  The beach was 100m away – good for long bracing walks AND my morning run! 

Hokitika was founded as a gold-mining settlement in 1864.  It is on a wild stretch of coastline, that has claimed many a ship in its time.  These days it is known for its driftwood-littered beach – regular competitions are held for driftwood sculptures.  The town is also awash with highly prized Pounamu, or greenstone – jade to you and me!  Sadly, due to luggage weight restrictions, not to mention the dwindling bank card, I had to settle for a pair of earrings!

Franz Josef is further south within the Westland National Park.  Glorious shorts and T-shirt weather accompanied us through more lush forests, but also lots of flat scrubby land, intercepted with wide glacial riverbeds coming down from the mountains which serve as a continual back drop.  Tiny towns (including one called Ross!) pop up infrequently, hence coffee and a loo need a bit of forward planning!

Franz Josef boasts its own glacier.  One of many along the Southern Alps, this one is closer to sea level than most.  A prebooked helicopter trip up to the glacier was sadly cancelled as the notorious cloud (in Maori, New Zealand is called Aotearoa which is often translated as “the land of the long white cloud”) decided to sit on the mountain at the wrong moment!  However, there are lots of local walks which give wonderful views of this rapidly diminishing spectacle. The clouds lifted later in the day to help with the photos!  Note the swaths of scarlet across the mountains – the Rata tree is in flower.  Reminds me of the purple hue across Scottish hills . . .

This journey gets better by the day, and there is lots to tell you.  I’ll send another entry within the next couple of days  – don’t want to overload you!