Our Last look at Sweden

Heading south-west from Stockholm, we headed for Lake Vänern – the largest lake in Sweden.  Covering an area of nearly 2,200 square miles, it spreads over three provinces and stretches for 140 km in length.  We enjoyed a stop near the northern end at Karlstad – beautiful beaches beyond the trees with water extending as far as the eye could see. 

Driving south down the western side of the lake we encountered some challenging narrow, windy back roads, but so worth doing when we encountered views like this . . .

At one stage I pulled into the end of a farm track to allow a couple of cars to pass us  – and there were “Eric and Rosa” (I decided to call them)  sitting in splendour looking out for the milk tanker each day!

We had a night at Håverud campsite, so that the canal geek in the passenger seat could have a look at the aqueduct, inaugurated in 1868. It is only 32.5 metres long and is just a long steel duct, recently renovated for the tourism industry.  What makes it unique is the combination of road, rail and canal all bridging the river gorge in a space of about 50 meters. The aqueduct was crucial in completing the Dalsland Canal.  There are 12 km of navigable channels between many lakes which make up a 250 km stretch of waterway going from Lake Stora Le  to Lake Vänern.  There is a 66m height difference which is covered by 31 locks.    Reputed to be one of the most beautiful waterways in the world, it is now frequented by leisure boats. 

In the south-east corner of the lake is an area known as Kinneviken, which includes Kållandsö Island.  Here we stayed on an idyllic campsite, 3 km off the main roads, in the trees and 200m from the lake.  It was so peaceful, we decided to stay on for a few nights to walk and chill out.  After such an adventure, it was bliss to just stop and enjoy the quiet.  The weather was NOT the best, but we managed to walk between showers. 

Läckö Slott (Lacko Castle) was cleverly built in the 1600s on a steep cliff and surrounded on three sides by water, at the northeast edge of Kållandsö Island.    It was the brainchild of a highly esteemed Bishop, to defend his huge diocese.  Since then, it has had a checkered history, but more recently has been taken over by the government for tourism.  Our guided tour included only 6 of the 250 rooms in the castle – most of the furniture and fittings have been removed over the years.  It is now painted in the original Baroque style. 

Gothenburg  (Göteborg) sits on the west coast of Sweden, due east of the northern tip of Denmark.  An easy bus ride took us into the city, from our campsite in one of the suburbs.  Sweden’s second largest city has a marvellous ‘young’ vibe to it.  The 23 foot Poseidon Statue (the Sea God) is considered a fitting figure to watch over this seaside city.  Well regarded in the past for its ship building industry, these days the city is known for the Volvo car industry and its vibrant night life.  Some thirty-four percent (34% ) of the population was born outside the country or has at least one parent born abroad. 

The Old Town (HAGA) is full of lovely street cafes and little artisan shops.  The original cinnamon bun is said to come from here!  Huge dinner plate size ‘pull and share’ buns draw in the crowds. 

Enormous shopping centres dominate the city centre (one mall has 200 shops!).  These centres are teeming with people at all times of the day and night – and everyone is carrying shopping purchases.  There’s certainly no recession in Sweden! 

We catch the ferry from Malmo this evening to begin our homeward journey.  Given that we will retrace our steps following the same route through Germany and The Netherlands to Hook of Holland for the ferry to Harwich, I will end this particular holiday blog here.