Splendid South Africa

The winds turned against us again between Mauritius and Durban – two days of very rough seas in a Force 8 gale, had everyone rock and rolling about the ship!

Getting to Zululand: We were very excited to arrive in Durban and join sixteen other passengers for a four-day trip to a Game Reserve.  We saw very little of Durban on our way out of the city, though the enormous football stadium built for the World Cup in 2010 stood out above the tree line.

 A four-hour drive took us up the east coast of South Africa to Richards Bay, where we turned inland through the area known as Zululand.  Plantations of eucalyptus, sugar cane and macadamia nuts were slowly replaced with rolling hills of savannah.   Zulu homesteads known as ‘kraal’ were tradionally a group of beehive shaped houses built around a cattle enclosure.  The round houses were cost effective and comfortable.  Most importantly, they were resistant to strong winds.  Zulu beliefs are formed around ancestral spirits.  Modern houses still have at least one beehive shaped house nearby. To this day, the round houses are the site for ritual worship of the ancestors. 

Biyela Lodge: Zulus practice and believe in ‘ubuntu’, meaning humanness or good disposition.  This was brought home to us at the wonderful Biyela Lodge.  We were met at the gate by smiling guides and suitcases were carefully stowed away (and found in our suites later), before we embarked on our first experience of travel within this 60,000-hectare private reserve.  Nine-seater land cruisers negotiated uneven, rutted dirt roads whilst our very amicable and knowledgeable guides managed to keep the vehicles upright and stimulate us with their enthusiasm.  What a jolt to our senses having spent two months onboard ship, to be plunged into the African Savannah.  The silence and the immense openness astounded us.  Imagine our excitement at coming across both zebra and antelope before we’d even reached the lodge!

The staff welcomed us with huge smiles and the offer of cool flannels and refreshing drinks.  Biyela Lodge consists of twelve stand-alone suites built into the hillside – built by members of the various local communities.  The suites were pure luxury – totally private and very spacious.  Having lived for two months with the restrictions in our ship’s cabin, we were totally overawed by the capaciousness of our suite.  Huge windows and an enormous balcony afforded wide ranging views over the iMfolozi River which runs through the reserve. 

Early morning and late afternoon safaris were the order of the day – siestas and lazing by the pool filled in the gaps.  Food was delicious and beautifully presented – including sundowners when out on safari! 

But it was the animals we had come to see, and we were not disappointed.  Three sorts of antelope, zebra, buffalo, white rhino, wildebeest, warthog, giraffe and elephant, not to mention numerous birds, lizards and tortoise. Just a few photos, in order that you don’t have too much to download.

The final evening’s treat was an outdoor BBQ, all beautifully served by candlelight whilst the guides walked continual circuits around us with torches to ensure no wildlife approached.  Zulu warriors danced and chanted for us – a perfect end to the evening.  None of us had our cameras with us, as this was all a last-minute surprise. 

I’m sure you can imagine how animated we were (the guides were beside themselves!) when fresh lion tracks were discovered around our BBQ site the following morning, as we were being driven back to the gate!  A suitable finale to a very special few days.