A Week in Denmark

We chose to enter Denmark by ferry.  Scandlines run a very efficient service from Puttgarden in Northern Germany to Rodbyhavn in Denmark.  We crossed an inlet of the Baltic Sea in full sunshine and with calm seas (thank goodness!)

I shall profess my ignorance now  – I had no idea what to expect in Denmark – I’d not had time to research it and knew nothing about it.  Yet all three Scandinavian countries have always been on our bucket list!  Today’s geography lesson is as follows:  The peninsula of Jutland makes up Denmark, along with – wait for it. . . . . 1419 islands!  Seventy-eight of those are inhabited.  Zealand is the largest island and the most densely populated – and home to Copenhagen.  We arrived on Lolland, and spent a couple of relaxed days in a tiny town called Sakskobing – everything was within walking distance including the rather ‘fun’ water tower. 

A pleasant journey on quiet roads through open countryside took us most of the way to Copenhagen.  Twenty minutes of motorway-driving on the outskirts of the city led us safely to our campsite on the western edge of the city.  A huge field serves as a summer-only campsite – efficiently run, with clean showers and toilets and washing facilities.  A 10-minute walk to the bus stop – 10 minutes on the bus, and we were in the city centre.  Again, a city pass was a good deal for two and a half days of travel in and out.  (this time our passes were checked by inspectors doing spot checks!).

Yet another city built around a harbour and canals – we took a canalboat tour and enjoyed the banter of the guide (in three languages) and his historical input.  Nyhavn is probably the most photographed area, and quite rightly so – attractively coloured houses adorn the canal sides, with numerous cafes to quench your thirst.  If you’re thinking of visiting Copenhagen by the way, make sure you take out a second mortgage – it is NOT cheap!! But it has its charms.  Beautiful squares, and splendid buildings most of which have been rebuilt or restored since a huge fire swept through the whole city in the 1700’s. 

Copenhagen is famous for its up-and-coming designs – many of its buildings endorse this.  Rain showers made photography a bit grey at times, but when the sun is out, the light here is wonderful.

It is also known for its Little Mermaid statue that ‘greets’ anyone entering the harbour (rather like the Statue of Liberty in New York).  Sadly, this little Mermaid has been badly maimed by vandals and demonstrators alike over the years and is more of an eyesore than an icon these days!  However Hans Christian Anderson himself is not forgotten . . . .

Having been blown away by the bicycle culture in The Netherlands,  we were astonished to discover an even greater cycle culture in Denmark.  Known as the world’s best city for cycling, more than half the workers in Copenhagen do their daily commute by bicycle.  Huge investment has been made in cycle lanes, next to bus lanes, next to road lanes.  The cycle lanes are used to the full because they are safe.  Visitors using their ‘old-fashioned legs’ quickly learn to ‘look both ways’ for cyclists!

By sheer coincidence we followed this year’s Tour de France route west from Copenhagen and over the Great Belt Bridge which connects Zealand to Furen.  This link features a 256 metre high suspension bridge, followed by a box-girder bridge – the entire link totalling 11 miles in length!  Bicycles are not normally allowed to use this link (they have to cross by bus or train) but the link was closed to traffic for the Tour de France – the wind is VERY STRONG across the entire link – it must have been very hard work for the cyclists! 

We spent a night near the town of Vejle – a starting point for another leg of the TDF.  Vejle makes an easy weekend getaway from Copenhagen (less than 2 hrs by motorway ), The town had lots of thriving restaurants, a marina full of boats (the cost of which would make your eyes water!), and some of the latest designs in modern apartment blocks. 

We’ve reached our furthest point north today – in the little town of Auning.  We’re on the quiet eastern peninsula which juts out into the Kattegat.  For those of you who love maps we’re at 56.5N (latitude), which happens to be parallel to Dundee in Scotland!  We have spent the day enjoying quiet country roads.  Huge open vistas of golden crops and enormous piles of timber from the abundant forested areas – all this interlaced with tiny villages.  Having decided we are ‘citied-out’, we avoided the summer crowds in Aarhus (sorry Ian), and plan a quiet day’s walking locally tomorrow before beginning our journey back south. 

We have three more nights in Denmark which I’ll cover in next week’s blog.

Until then . . . .