North Holland

Driving north from Amsterdam, we enjoyed a stop with a view point on the coast of Lake Markermeer.

To help you understand . . . The North Sea inlet to the northeast of The Netherlands was dammed off in 1932 – the Lake that was formed was called the Zuiderzee.  This was further divided in 1976, by a new dam – the southern lake is the Markermeer and the northern one is the Ijsselmeer. 

Monnickendam is a gorgeous little town, conveniently situated just 1.5 hrs from Amsterdam, and therefore a good place to moor your gin-palace!  Molly sat in a carpark on the edge of town, whilst we meandered down the cobbled streets admiring the many beautiful gardens.  Everywhere is beautifully kept and with the exception of Amsterdam itself, we have seen NO LITTER anywhere.

As the motor homers among you will know, we prefer small, quiet campsites and are grateful to our neighbour in Penrice who knows Germany and The Netherlands well.  Armed with his suggestions, we made our way to a campsite at Slootdorp  (well, we had to go for the name alone!)  “I don’t take bookings, just turn up” related the owner on the phone.  What a lovely surprise!  We were able to choose a space with far reaching views and no ‘neighbours’.

We had found ourselves on a huge tulip farm.  They started digging the bulbs for this year’s foreign market the day we left.  Apparently they are peeled, and then some sold as bulbs whilst others are planted into their greenhouses which then produce thousands upon thousands of tulips.  Upwards of 40 immigrants work during the season – picking 10,000 blooms a day!

In tune with the forward thinking of the Dutch, the field in front of Molly was all about Biodiversity.  Planted specifically to encourage birds and insects, the wheat will not be harvested but just left to bloom, drop seed and dry out – and then be ploughed back into the soil.  Cornflowers, poppies and cow parsley enhanced the wheat ears – just beautiful. 

The province of North Holland is joined to the province of Friesland by the enormous, 32 km Afsluitdijk dam and causeway.  It was constructed in the early 1930’s with a width of 90 metres (sufficient for a dual carriageway) and an initial height of 7.25 metres. In effect, this dams off the North Sea, and creates the freshwater lake of Ijsselmeer.  It is being strengthened at present, making all viewpoints and carparks out of bounds.

Using back roads as much as possible, we found our way to Zwarte Hann – a wonderful viewpoint overlooking the Wadden Sea.  The huge tidal range here, makes a perfect bird sanctuary. 

The northern province of Friesland is delightful.  Quiet back roads through glorious countryside and tree-lined boulevards, interspersed with well kept villages. 

The tiny town of Anjum is built around it’s 17^th century windmill.  This ‘smock’ mill was rebuilt following a fire in 1889 – (you will gather there are different styles)  It has 8 sloping sides, around its five storey base  – the ‘stage’ is at 4^th floor level (a good 9 metres above ground level).  The ‘smock’ and the cap are thatched. Four huge sails have a span of 22 metres.  We were fascinated to climb all the way to the top floor, and enjoyed the various exhibitions set up on each floor, both of local artwork AND the actual workings of the mill.  In this case the mill was used to grind corn and barley.  Depending on their location, windmills were also used for pumping water and for sawing wood.  (Not many photos taken as it was pouring with rain!)

Again, the local campsite served us well – easy walk into town, or surrounding countryside, marvellous sunsets – and all run by a very chirpy girl called Marilyn from Belfast!!  (Well! You couldn’t do better, could you?) 

A feature that has taken my eye, particularly in this area of North Netherlands, are the many stunning thatched roofs, particularly on farm buildings.  On looking into it, I discover that thatch is becoming a status symbol (having almost disappeared over the years).  It is normal here for the farm buildings to join onto the family home.  In many cases the thatch spreads over the barns, then part way over the house.  Coveted as having high insulation values as well as being rainproof, the thatch is made from the local reeds which grow along the canals.  Despite it being a local commodity, it is extremely expensive to have it professionally applied – but then lasts at least thirty years.  Also of note are the very steeply pitched roofs – this ensures that heavy snow does not settle, but falls off due to the angle. 

Our final day in The Netherlands for this leg of the trip, brought us to Bourtange, very near the German border.  This tiny village is renowned for its Fort which was completed in 1593, the original purpose being to take control of the only road between Germany and the city of Groningen, just south of here.  This was during the Eighty Years War when the Spaniards were trying to occupy the country. It continued to serve as part of the defensive network on the German border until 1851 when it was converted to a village.  Various parts of the village are now part of the historical museum which not only brings in the coffers to help maintain the ramparts, but also gives employment and a sense of purpose the villagers. 

I’ll continue next week from North Germany.