Thurso to Ullapool – NC500

Thurso to Ullapool – The N 500

Having read lots of glowing reviews of the NC500 route across the north of Scotland, we were eager to drive it, but concerned that it may not live up to reviews.  NO WORRIES!  This route gets an A* rating every step (or mile) of the way! 

From Thurso, heading in an anti-clockwise direction (as advised in the guidebooks), we crossed miles of spectacular moorland.  From the purple hues of the heather to the yellowy-bronze of the autumnal bracken, the acres of peat bog never failed to please the eye.  Known as ‘blanket bog’, this 1544 square mile expanse is reputed to be the largest in the world.  The peat can be up to ten metres deep and acts as a valuable carbon ‘sink’ in the fight against climate change. 

Of interest to our military friends, we passed the Dounray Nuclear Power Station, now being decommissioned, but originally built to trial the reactors for the first of the British nuclear submarines.  Local unemployment figures will rise sharply in 2025 when it closes – there must have been 1000 workers cars in the carpark! 

Strathy Point was our lunch spot, and we enjoyed a good walk out to the cliffs where we sat watching seals playing close to shore.  The tide was turning and we hoped to see dolphins (or a whale or two) but no luck, yet! 

Driving west, mountains began to appear in the distance.  The rolling hills around us became higher and rockier.  This amazing road sweeps around bends, over rivers, and up and down hills.  In many places it is single track with passing places which kept the adrenaline levels high as Molly constantly pulled in to let oncomers through (often other MoHo’s!).  But the awe-inspiring vistas around every corner and from the top of every hill far outweigh any challenges in the driving.  Bettyhill is a pretty little settlement these days, but with a very sad history – it was originally settled by tenant farmers who had been kicked off their land during the Scottish Clearances (google it!).  Unfortunately, none of the museums along the way were open, due to Covid, so we ‘made do’ with Google.

The moors slowly disappear making way for rocky outcrops, velvety green fields, and stunning lochs and inlets.  The weather was still dry with no wind hence the reflections on the water were exceptional.  Many of the inlets boast long white sandy beaches.  The tiny settlement of Laid on Loch Eriboll was our next stop.  This little CL (certified location for the non-campers amongst you) is a gem – just the five pitches, all overlooking the loch with mountains in the distance.  We had two nights there and were again blessed with a glorious warm, sunny day during which we were delighted  to sit reading in the sunshine, and take a stroll along the water’s edge!  More ‘pinch me’ moments as I sat in sun top and shorts – am I really in the far north of Scotland in mid-September??

Setting off before breakfast (we were eager to see more!), we were rewarded with the sun peeking through the early morning mist in places. 

We took a VERY challenging sideroad out to Kinlockbervie – a walk among the sand dunes eventually led to a magical white sandy beach – deserted!  Lots more single track road along the N500, and many more WOW moments as we came across another amazing view. 

Scourie is a tiny hamlet about half way between Durness and Ullapool.  We spent a week here in 1974 for our honeymoon!  The discovery of a campsite made a return visit seem very fitting – for old time’s sake, you understand!  There are a few more houses in Scourie these days, AND a very good campsite, right on the edge of the harbour (if we let the handbrake off, we’d be in the ‘oggin’!)  Sadly the hotel where we stayed has closed after a very short season (thanks to Covid).  Instead, we enjoyed a long lunch at the Kylesku Hotel just along the road, which not only produced delicious food, but had wonderful views down the Loch.

Today’s journey from Scourie to Ullapool continued on much the same theme – stunning countryside with mist covered mountains looming in the background.  Sadly the weather has become very ‘Scottish’  . . . . . . . high winds and rain showers.  Ullapool is a thriving community.  The campsite is enormous, but right next to the sea – all toilet and shower facilities on site are closed due to Covid (as we have seen in many places),  but it is still a place to safely spend the night, plugged into electricity, and with facilities to empty toilet ‘cannister’s, dump ‘grey water’ and fill up with fresh water.  As I sit here, ready to post this out to you, Molly is being buffeted by the gale force winds (you’d think we were at sea!) and heavy rain is pounding on the roof!  What a change from just two days ago . . . . . .