Week 2 – Heading East

Travelling east from Montreal to Quebec City was a joy.  The Trans Canada Highway proved its worth, in that it is fast and fairly smooth going.  We used the more scenic routes through smaller towns when it was time for coffee, lunch  and/or a change of driver.  Passing through several ‘English’ named towns – Sherbrooke, Richmond, Warwick – we stopped for a coffee in Waterloo.  In typical Canadian style, we were warmly greeted, told to sit ‘where you like’ and within seconds the waitress appeared at the table with two mugs of steaming, hot, black coffee.  She’s happy to change them for something else, but perhaps this country is more caffeine driven than we knew!

 

Whilst on the subject of drink, some of you may not know of the archaic licensing laws in Canada  – and they change, from province to province.  To buy a bottle of wine in Ontario, you need to go to the LCBO – Liquor Control Board of Ontario.  In Quebec, we discovered it’s the SAQ – Societe de Alcol de Quebec. In New Brunswick, it’s the Alcohol Store!  A little research needed in each province, but I’ll drink to that!  Not so easy as buying a bottle of wine, or gin, from the shelves in Morrisons!

Camping de la Joie near Quebec City was not just a lovely quiet, tree lined site, but provided an excellent shuttle service into the city – a very comfortable car, driven by the owner – so no need for taxis or buses.   A Guided Walking Tour of the old walled city, with an inspirational guide, rattled my brain as I was reminded of my school history lessons – Samuel de Champlain, founder of Quebec, (and the beginnings of the Canadian nation) and nasty battles on the Plains of Abraham between the British and the French.    Walking the Walls, gives a bird’s eye view of  brightly painted tin roofs (which show up in the snow), tiny windows (due to the cost of glass which was originally shipped from France), stone walls covered with mortar (to protect from the freezing weather) and an astounding array of architecture.

From the world famous Chateau Frontenac Hotel, built by the Canadian Pacific Railways in 1893, to the first Anglican Cathedral outside Europe, a copy of St Martin’s in the Field, built in 1804.  All with a very French atmosphere – almost Parisian like.

Our cholesterol levels must have gone through the roof as we sampled a local delicacy – Poutine – every house has its own recipe!  Bite sized pieces of rabbit, tiny curds of local cheese, and French fries – all covered in thyme and garlic flavoured gravy – I rest my case!

Continuing north east along the southern side of the St Lawrence River, and turning south following the US border, we crossed into New Brunswick.  Beautiful scenery with the Laurentian mountains on one side and the beginnings of the Appalachians on the other.   Lakes and huge swathes of Silver Birch and Pine Forest, as far as the eye could see.  Mulherin’s Campground, near Grand Falls had a nice lakeside site for us – the owners were happy to allow us to park for the night, even though they were not officially open.  The high-pitched call of the night frogs around the lake certainly signaled springtime, even if the locals weren’t ready for us tourists yet! 

Further south and east, the incredible amounts of water flowing over Grand Falls provided an impressive site – Visiting so soon after the devastating local floods, meant that water levels were very high.  The St John River drops over a cliff edge here and into a deep gorge – totally unspoiled by tourism (unlike Niagara!) we felt privileged to have seen it. 

Stopping to see the longest covered bridge in the world at Hartland was a further treat.  Sadly Lulu is too high and wide to travel through any of these bridges – shorter versions are dotted all over New Brunswick.

 

Fredericton, the capital of New Brunswick, boasts wide, tree lined avenues with beautifully maintained Georgian and Victorian houses.  The Beaverbrook Art Gallery gave us a real insight into Canadian art. Lord Beaverbrook’s collection (he was born in a tiny village not far from my childhood home) was a gift to the town, and includes many international artists as well.  Sunbury Oromocto Campground near Fredericton, provided another lakeside site – just opened for the season, as it’s a bank holiday weekend here.  Queen Victoria’s birthday has always been celebrated.  Fitting that Harry and Meghan’s wedding should fall on the same weekend, although I had to be content with internet coverage, as the TV signals from Lulu, are almost non-existent!

Fundy National Park has been high on Peter’s bucket list.  Inheriting some of his father’s love of geology, Hopewell Rocks on the Bay of Fundy, was our weekend destination.  Ponderosa Pines campground has proved its worth, with good hard standing for Lulu (much needed as it is now raining!) and only 3 km from the Rocks.  At this point on the Bay of Fundy, the tidal range can be as much as 14 ft.  For three hours either side of low tide, you can walk on the “ocean floor”, looking almost skywards to see the high tide line on the rocks. At high tide (and in season) you can kayak around the tops of the rocks, in 14 ft of water, very near the shoreline!

 

 

 

 

 

We left home two weeks ago – and have covered 2050  km, so far.  Onwards we go!