Greenland, (which translates to ‘fertile land’) is the world’s largest island. The south of the island has many little inlets and islands, and we were lucky enough to enter Prins Christiansund on a sunny day. Very cold (winter coat, woolly hat and gloves) temperatures accounted for the numerous icebergs floating past us, but the clear sunny skies gave us a wonderful cruise alongside dramatic mountains and glaciers. Sadly, we had to turn around halfway along the Sound because of ice floes blocking the route.
Our first port of call was Narsarsuaq (nar-sar-suak), a settlement of 125 inhabitants, where Bolette dropped her anchor offshore and we were ‘tendered’ ashore. Sheep farming and fishing sustain the community. The little school has eight pupils with two teachers. A supply ship arrives every 14 days. 90% of the island’s electricity is hydroelectricity. I’m sure the odd visit from a cruise ship helps the local economy no end – the local tour company and the one supermarket do a roaring trade!
Narsarsuaq increased in size dramatically during WW2, when the Americans built an airbase here. A very informative museum and a few little houses still exist along the runway which now deals with small light aircraft from other parts of Greenland.
We enjoyed a boat ride across the fiord to the tiny hamlet of Qassiarsuk, where Eric the Red first settled in the late 900’s. Ruins of the Viking’s long houses are still visible, along with a replicas of a long house and the first Christian church.
Our luck ran out with the weather as we travelled along the south coast – the Captain announced that for our safety AND our comfort we would spend 24 hours in the quiet harbour of Narsaq, in order to avoid a VERY strong swell and thick, pea-soup fog. This deep harbour used to be where foreign trading ships would anchor. Seal blubber and skins would be traded for coffee, sugar, bread and buckwheat. Again, the local economy must have benefitted from our arrival. The brewery was opened as were the two cafes and were doing a roaring trade. We chose to walk out of town and upwards towards a viewpoint looking over the ship and back to the town. Thick mist and frequent, heavy rain showers did nothing for the photos!
Qaqortoq was our last port visit in Greenland. It is Southern Greenland’s largest town with 1300 inhabitants. Very colourful houses were on show through the mountain mists. The colours were explained to us as follows: Red for ‘official people’, Blue for any businesses, Yellow for hospitals and caring. People would paint their houses according to where they worked. Sadly the tradition is dying out, but people still like to paint their houses in bright colours.
We chose to do a guided walk around the Great Lake. As you can see from the photos, the weather closed in on us! Very heavy rain persisted – the only plus of the rain is the resident mosquitoes don’t come out in the rain!!
Fascinating place – uncanny to be bothered by mosquitoes when icebergs are still floating on the fiords. The wildflowers are beautiful, if you can find them in the mist!
We now make our way back to the northern shores of Iceland. The Captain has just announced that we will go through Prins Christiansund on our way as the ice floes have moved and we can journey all the way – will the mist lift? Fingers crossed!
I’ll tell you later . . . . .
Molly's Folks 