Vancouver Island

Hello Folks!

For those of you who have never visited Northern British Columbia, I can’t recommend it highly enough.  The journey from Hazelton to Prince Rupert passes through some of the most magnificent and dramatic scenery we’ve seen.  Beautiful snow-capped mountains, pristine lakes, wide rivers which vary from quiet, mirror-like pools with very clear water, to rushing torrents of milky glacial run-off.  There are some very fertile and productive farms in the valleys – a lot of fruit is grown in the Terrace area, which has its own micro-climate. The majority of the area however, is thick mixed woodland, where the lumber industry employs much of the sparse population.  The Canadian Railway criss-crosses the road and winds itself around the mountains.  Huge freight trains regularly chug along the lines, stretching up to 14,000 ft long – that’s 4km!  You can read a book whilst you’re waiting at the level crossings!    Once again, we were blessed with brilliant sunshine and blue skies, which helped to show this area at its best.

British Columbia Ferries run an impressive ferry route up and down the west coast of B.C. between Prince Rupert and Port Hardy (on the north-eastern coast of Vancouver Island), which takes you through the ‘Inner Passage’. This eighteen hour journey had been highly recommended, and not without reason.  Trip Advisor served its purpose, and we followed the suggestion of pre-booking reclining chairs in the Aurora Lounge which has floor to ceiling windows on one of the upper levels at the bow of the ship.   This paid off – we sailed at 7:30 am and docked at 11:30 pm.  Apart from the last hour of darkness, the entire journey was picture postcard perfect.  The route takes you through the very narrow (1400 ft) Grenville Channel, with its steeply sided mountains and enormous depths of water (up to 1620 ft), and then widens at various river junctions.

Very old lighthouses  (still manned!) are dotted along the route  – and the tiny town of Bella Bella ( a First Nation’settlement) is a regular stop to take on and discharge passengers.  Not only is the scenery breathtaking, so is the wildlife.  Orcas and humpback whales performed for us in several places and pods of porpoises frolicked in the water.  Bald eagles swooped for jumping salmon.  Again, I can’t grace you with photos – in the excitement of seeing all these amazing creatures, I never have my camera at the ready!  Several campgrounds have been set up at either end of the ferry run – unfortunately, the fact that the majority of the campers are either arriving at midnight, or departing at 5:30 am, means that individual private sites are non-existent.  These campgrounds should be called RV Carparks!!  Sadly, we were not allowed to park and sleep in the ferry queue. . . .

Vancouver Island is a very popular holiday destination, as well as having its own population of 780,000.  It is 500km long and 100 km wide, and boasts a temperate climate.  Boating, beaches, hiking in the mountains or the rainforests – the Island has it all.  Our campsite at Campbell River backed onto a tidal inlet where we sat and watched four bald eagles on their nests.  The town was an easy walk away for shopping and a meal out – and much needed haircuts!  The Pacific Rim Trail along the west coast of the island provided a lovely hike through the trees – knarled with age and sea winds – with awe-inspiring views of the ocean.

My goal was to see the sunset over the Pacific, as well as dip my toes in  – I managed both!

The road from the east to west coast – Hwy 4, the Alberni Highway, takes a lot of patience and tested Lulu (and her drivers!) to the limit.  Steep mountains passes and narrow, very tight bends meant queues of cars building up very quickly.  Nervous intakes of breath became the norm whenever an enormous truck appeared in the opposite direction!  Passing places help to relieve the pressure, but this road will be remembered as one of life’s challenges . . . . .

After a night to recover in Cedar Grove Campground at Qualicum Beach, a small roll-on, roll-off ferry has brought us to Salt Spring Island, the largest of the Gulf Islands in the Strait of Georgia between Vancouver Island and the mainland.  With a population of 10,000, its location and climate have attracted everyone from artists to farmers, from writers to retirees.  The Mowhinna Creek campground near Ganges, has wonderful big, private sites with lots of shade to keep Lulu cool.  Every guidebook lists the Saturday Farmers Market on the island as being a number one priority.  This of course means that every other tourist seemingly in the whole of British Columbia is attending the market as well!!  We walked into town (2km) having decided that parking Lulu might be difficult – a good decision. . . . This market is enormous – easily 200 stalls, and vendors must “make it, bake it or grow it” themselves, with all products being ‘vendor produced or sold’.  A very popular spot with visitors and locals, and a tremendous atmosphere.  The hot summer sun twinkling on the harbour waters next to the stalls, just seemed to nourish everyone’s already contented holiday disposition.  They definitely got the marketing right on this gem!

Moving on to Vancouver soon. . . . . See you then.