Headin’ West

Peter’s map this week will show you our route from Quebec City – where Lulu was serviced – to Winnipeg, Manitoba.  Yes!  We’re headin’ west!

A comfortable day’s driving across Quebec took us to a campsite on Lake Marlon, where we were alloted a lovely lakeside site.   However, an oversight on our part, meant that we’d chosen a campsite with no electricity, no water pressure  (a dribble at best!) and no sewage dump!  Note for the future  . . . . . check the details more thoroughly when booking!  However, I must mention our lunch stop that day.  We pulled into a municipal park with hunger being the only thing on our minds,  only to discover that we were next to an Open Cast Gold Mine.  The mine at Malartic was only opened in 2011. With the discovery of gold, came the mammoth task of moving families and homes to make way for the enormous mining area – over the 15 years they expect it to run it will spread to some 2km in length by almost 1 km wide, and up to 380m deep.  From an observation platform way above, we stood and watched in amazement as dozens of excavators filled dozens of trucks (we were so high above the mine, they looked like dinky toys!) with freshly dug rock, and drove off to processing areas to extract the precious metals.  It’s a 24/7 extraction process, which they estimate could produce 10.7 million ounces of gold.

Contrary to what people had told us, we thoroughly enjoyed crossing Northern Ontario – all  1400 kms of it!  Mile upon mile of boreal forest, with the Trans Canada Hwy cutting right through it.  Lots of road side warnings about wandering Moose  (no such luck!) . Tiny little settlements, with houses very close to the main road – we assume this negates any snow clearance issues – and dotted amongst all of this are pristine little lakes to feed the eye.    Employment in this ‘back of beyond’ area is rife with a huge logging, pulp and paper industry, lots of hydro-electricity stations and further gold mines.  Presumably job opportunities far outweigh the extremes in climate  – very long, cold, snowy winters and short, hot, humid summers.

Determined to make this a restful holiday, we crossed Ontario over three nights.  Veilleux Campground near Hearst was at the end of 3km of bumpy dirt road, which made for some discomfort for both Lulu and her passengers!  By this time we were used to having no phone signal or WIFI, but at least there was electricity and water.  Wild Goose Lake Campsite, near Ignace,  was a blissful, shaded site for our second night.  We arrived early enough to enjoy two hour’s canoeing on the lake in the late afternoon sunshine.  Beautifully peaceful, we had the lake to ourselves, with the only sound being the gentle lap of our paddles.

Larger, and more spectacular lakes along with dramatic hills and rocky outcrops began to appear as we approached Nipigon.  A very clever mobile phone app called ‘Gas Buddy’ led us to the cheapest petrol in Nipigon  – not only were we served by a very helpful chap, but they served free coffee to boot!   As you can imagine, petrol is our biggest outlay – Gas Buddy has become a close ally!  We were humbled to visit the Terry Fox Memorial near Thunder Bay.  Terry Fox did much to raise the profile of cancer and its treatment, when in 1980 he attempted to run a marathon-a-day across Canada, with a prosthetic leg and suffering from bone cancer.  Due to recurrence of the cancer he had to give up at 3,339 miles (5373 km), but his personal courage had captivated Canadians, and revolutionized fund raising.   He was given all sorts of awards for his bravery and died shortly afterwards.

Sandbar Provincial Park was our final overnight stop in Ontario – deep in the trees, we were ‘confined to Lulu’ as a thunderstorm broke over us that evening.  Mosquitoes were swarming in the warm, wet conditions.  Insect repellent is rapidly becoming another ally on this trip!  Entering Manitoba (province no 7),   the campsite at West Hawk Lake Provincial Park gave welcome relief from the heat.  Crashing thunder and torrential rain woke us the following morning, and we were thankful we were NOT in a tent!  Heading ever further west, and still on the Trans Canada Highway, the forests, lakes and hills eventually give way to flat grasslands  – the beginnings of the Prairies.  Just as we noticed the change in geology, so we passed the Centre of Canada!

Winnipeg, capitol of Manitoba, is at the fork of the Red River and the Assiniboine River.  Thousands of years of trading has benefitted from this location – river travel being easier than non-existent roads in the past.  The Forks is now the central tourist area in Winnipeg and includes a huge market with central eating area – food from whatever country you wish, and all in the wonderful friendly, happy atmosphere of the ‘Peggies’  (people from Winnipeg).  The Town and Country Campground on the edge of the city, provided a good rest after the rigors of city sightseeing.

West of Winnipeg, and across Manitoba . . . . the Prairies  . . . .the subject of another blog!  See you next time . . .